Youngstown Eats: Sokolowski's University Inn

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Sokolowski's University Inn - Cleveland

One of the joys of cable television is the Travel Channel, and one of the joys of the Travel Channel is Anthony Bourdain’s program, No Reservations. Mr. Bourdain, who is himself a chef and one cool dude, travels all over the world sampling local culture and local food. His shows are earthy, and irreverent, and sometimes rated “not for children”.

Last year, he landed in Cleveland, and decided that Cleveland didn’t suck…his words, not mine. The program was semi-flattering. He used the term “rust belt” a lot. On the plus side, he concentrated on the neighborhoods of Cleveland, and the variety of food it has to offer.

Center stage was Sokolowski’s University Inn in the Tremont section of Cleveland. This is the proverbial local hangout, serving Polish style food since 1923. Mr. Bourdain was accompanied there by his local hosts, who were obviously of Slavic extraction..almost walking stereotypes. But damn, he said the food was good; and damn, it sure looked good. I am sucker for comfort food places and Sokolowski’s looked like the big kielbasa. So we decided to check the place out.

Contrary to bloggers and reviewers, this place isn’t hard to find at all. It is a hop, skip and jump from the West Side Market…about 2 minutes off of the Carnegie Bridge (I had never seen the mammoth statues at either end of the bridge…talk about art deco cool. They are beautiful!).

Like all places of this ilk, it isn’t much to look at on the outside, sort of like an English cottage. Walk inside, and you will find a line waiting to go through the cafeteria. Yes, the food is served cafeteria style. There is a large bar around which the cafeteria line circles. You can kill time while waiting looking at the myriad of pictures on the walls of the place's history and celebrities who have frequented the establishment. Bill Clinton has a plaque by his booth.

The bill of fare is posted at various places along the route. Salisbury steak is its signature dish. You can also try Chicken Paprikash, stuffed cabbage, pierogies, a schnitzel, plus steaks and prime rib. On Friday, they have fried Lake Erie perch. The cafeteria line starts with wonderful desserts made by a “a lady and her daughter”. The chocolate cake is sinful. Then you go past a tub filled with ice, polish beers, and restaurant branded sodas like red pop. Then you get to the main event, and the food looks spectacular. I had the Salisbury Steak, and my wife had the chicken. The mashed potatoes are done from scratch and tasted like Mom used to make. My wife said the pierogies melted in her mouth. Coupled with green beans done to perfection, and a garlic coated role…what else do you need in life? Be warned. The portions are big, and the food is tasty so you can’t stop eating even if you wanted to!

There are two dining rooms, both done in heavy wood overtones, almost lodge like. One room has a fireplace. The other room has a piano along with a pianist playing music, and really nice music, while you are eating your dinner. The guy is supposedly a Cleveland legend. He looks like an enforcer for the Lowellville mob, but has a great touch.

This is going onto my list of top ten places to go. It is fun. It is easy to get to if you are in the Cleveland area. If you haven’t explored the Tremont section of Cleveland, take some time to drive around. It’s kind of neat.

Be warned. Hours tend to be screwy. Lunch is served Monday through Friday 11 – 3. Dinner is served Friday 5- 11 and Saturday 4 – 11. It is closed Sundays. Check the website!!!

Sokolowski’s gets an Anthony Bourdain 4 meatballs. Easy!