Youngstown Eats: Ken Stewart's Grille

Monday, June 27, 2011

Ken Stewart's Grille - Akron, Oh

The events of this past week gave my wife and I good reason to celebrate. So I went to the bank to refinance the house, and we drove to Ken Stewart’s Grille in Akron to spend some money and do some serious eating. Although I had heard lots of good things about it, for some reason we never got around to making the trek to Akron. It is apparently an Akron institution. I tried to find some history, but was unsuccessful. I always like to know what makes a place a local institution. Maybe just “being” is sufficient enough.

I didn’t know what to expect. It is an interesting place. From the décor and style of building, I am going to guess it has been there since the late 1970’s. It looks small from the outside, but looks are deceiving. Parking is across the side street in a lot marked restaurant parking, and the main entrance is on the side of the building. As you walk in the door, you are greeted by a bevy of ladies working the hostess desk. You should have reservations here on the weekend. It is a busy, busy place.

An attractive and surprisingly large bar is to your left. There is a lot of dinner seating in the bar, but I am not sure if that is reserved seating or first come first served. My preference is usually eat in the bar area, and next time I will make sure to ask when calling for reservations. The dining room is attractive, but reflects the period in which the restaurant was built. They don’t make ‘em like this anymore. Along one wall is a row of private booths, which are great for if you are looking to do a little romance without being in front of God and everybody!!!! Each of the booths has a quirky painting on the wall, I assume painted by the owner…but who knows?

We were promptly seated at one of these booths, and after the waitress took our drink order, the manager of the restaurant came over and said that someone else had reserved that booth, and they would like us to move to the next booth down. Ooookaaay. That happened to me only once before…30 years ago at Alberini’s in Niles. It is a bit disconcerting. But what are you going to do? Say no? So we obliged the house and in turn the house bought us a round of drinks. That being said, it never should have happened at a place like this.

The interior décor of the restaurant is really, really pretty; but Dude, it’s like doing the time warp. It is eclectic. You can’t put a “style” name to it except that you would be comfortable in this kind of a place if it were 1975. I loved it, but I am sixty. But the young folks in the bar seemed right at home, too. So what do I know? There is a stylized picture of Ken Stewart at the top of the menu. Looks a little psychedelic to me!!! The waitress said that was him back in the day.

Let’s talk about the food. It is good. It is expensive. And there is lots of it. Although Ken Stewart’s serves steaks and chops, it is much, much more than a steakhouse. The menu is varied with lots of interesting things from which to choose. It is semi ala carte. A house salad comes with the meal, but the sides are extra and big enough to serve at least three.

We started the meal with baked brie covered with a marmalade and served with a miniature loaf of French bread. It was portioned big enough to share with four. My wife then had the house salad which she said was pretty good. I opted out of the salad and ordered a tomato bisque soup served with a mammoth puff pastry that covered the top of the very ample soup bowl. Soup was outstanding…the pastry was good and “crummy”.

For an entrée, my wife ordered encrusted walleye and I chose veal piccata. She reported the walleye was the best she ever had, and the veal was simply outstanding. It was butter tender served in a subtle lemon, butter and caper sauce. Often times with veal piccata the component parts jump out at you. Not here. It was a perfect blend with obviously quality veal.

For sides we ordered a superb twice baked potato, big enough for three, stuffed with cheddar cheese and bacon (heart healthy people not allowed) and roasted Brussel Sprouts which were out of this world. Again, you could serve three from the portion brought to the table.

For dessert, we split a coconut sorbet, which tasted like coconut…not like a pina colada as I suspected it would. Homemade and terrific!! Again, portion big enough for at least two.

Folks, this place is pricey which makes it an event restaurant. Entrees range from $19.00 and up…mostly up!!! Mid range would $30.00 plus. BUT…you get what you pay for, and the food meets the expectations. Wine by the glass is in the $8.50 range. You probably would do better buying a bottle, but I am not much of wine drinker so I go by the glass!!!!

Service was very good. Our waitress was helpful and friendly, especially after the unintended table move!!!! Other people reviewing the restaurant mentioned that service could be quirky, and I could see that happening as the visits from the server became much less as the crowd in the restaurant increased. But I had no complaints tonight.

One other thing…the place seems to be “matriarchal.” Other than the bus boys, we did not see one male waiter or host or manager…all women. I asked the server if any males worked there. She named two, but they were off tonight leaving the women folk to hold down the fort, so to speak. That is unusual because my experience is that the more expensive the restaurant, the more likely the wait staff will be men. Just an observation…. You should also know that Ken Stewart's is renowned for its wine list. There is patio dining in the summer.

There are two other Ken Stewart restaurants in the area, both located in Bath to the north of Akron. Tre Belle is Italian and the other is called The Lodge, which is the Grille gone casual. (That being said, the people were not dressed as the price scale would indicate they should. Sign of the times).

Ken Stewart’s Grille would have gotten five meatballs, but I knocked one meatball off for the table blunder which is inexcusable at these prices, but added a ½ back in for the round of drinks which followed.