Youngstown Eats

Mojo's Pub and Grill - Austintown

2012-01-16T11:58:00.000-08:00

What recession? People in the Mahoning Valley must have a lot of gas…gas money that is…because the restaurants have been packed. Two Saturday night’s ago, my wife and I attempted to meet some friends at Arnie’s in Ravenna, and it was closed for vacation. So we went to our “go to” restaurant instead, the Café 422. OMG, it was PACKED to the gills with wait times up to an hour. Eventually we corralled a place at the bar and ate there making friends with some “interesting” people who make life, well, interesting.

This past Saturday night, once again we made the trip to Arnie’s. OMG, it was PACKED to the gills with wait times up to an hour. This time we knew better than to try to go to the 422, so we stopped at The Fifth Season which was on our way home to a pizza. It also had wait times in excess of an hour. So we headed on down Mahoning Avenue.

Just a little bit before that infamous landmark The Pink Elephant, across the street is a place called Mojo’s. I screeched to a halt and told my wife I had seen this place advertised on television and also a segment on the WFMJ Good Morning show. One is never to old to pull a u-ie when no cop is watching, and we pulled into the parking lot. I didn’t know what to expect. I was pleasantly surprised.

This area has a plethora of schizophrenic eating establishments that are basically sports bars, but offer upgraded food that is beyond the facility’s basic premise. Mojo’s is one of those places. It is a tavern/bar. The décor is relatively simple with televisions strategically and well placed. Somebody knew what they were doing. The bar area is actually kind of small and off to the left when you go in. The rest of the restaurant is your standard table and booth thing. Nothing fancy but still very attractive.

The menu is more ambitious than the décor would indicate. And I was skeptical when I first saw it. There is a wide range of sandwiches and flat breads, along with standard wings and fried cheese. But it also offers a number of Cajun specialties and a whole lot of BBQ and steaks and the like. There are numerous and creative chicken dishes. And the bar menu is terrific with lots of innovative Mojotinis!!!

My wife and I ordered burgers…and they were OUTSTANDING. I gotta tell ya…nothing fills the bill like a great burger. And as we waited for our food to come out, I watched the plates of all sorts of food coming out of the kitchen. One thing looked better than the other. In addition to the burger, I ordered a bowl of loaded potato soup. OMG, it was PACKED to the gills with everything good. It made Fettuccine Alfredo look heart healthy. I swear the recipe for the soup started with add a pound of bacon fat. It was SOOO GOOD, and now on my top list of favorite soups, that seems to be growing by the week.

Service was prompt and friendly. Our waitress is one of the nicest we have had in awhile. Mojo’s gets a big thumbs-up from me. There is a large outdoor patio area which I assume is used in the summer. No meatballs awarded because we have only been their once, and I want to try one of their entrees before making a meatball judgment. But I suspect it’s going to be good. I like this place.

Mojo’s Pub and Grill
6292 Mahoning Ave,
Austintown, OH 44515
330-779-0995

Gandy Dancer Saloon - Pittsburgh (Station Square)

2012-01-07T02:20:00.000-08:00

So what to do on a January Friday night when the sun is shining and it is 54 degrees? Get in the car for a road trip to Pittsburgh, the greatest city in the world. Alright, a tad hyperbolic, but it is a great place. Tonight we went to one of my regular Pittsburgh hangouts, the Gandy Dancer Saloon in Station Square on Carson Street.

We have gone to the Gandy Dancer for years. It is, for all practical purposes, the bar for the beautiful Grand Concourse restaurant next door. Both are "owned" by the Muer Restaurant Group which owns restaurants in diverse areas of the Midwest and carries a heavy emphasis on seafood. One notable is Charlie’s Crab in Cleveland and two other locations. It used to own the defunct Engine House No. 5 in Columbus. The waiters slid down the fire poles!!!! The Muer folks have been around for awhile, and if you remember Engine House No. 5, you know just how long!!!! Muer Restaurant group is now part of Landry Hospitality which owns more than three hundred Class 1 restaurants throughout the United States. I have provided a link because it is kind of neat to see which restaurant is related to what other restaurant…and you would never know unless I told you. There are some big names in this group.

At any rate, we started going to the Gandy Dancer when we couldn’t get into the Grand Concourse for dinner. I suppose I could say that the décor is faux old…but it has been there for so long the décor may actually qualify as genuine period!!!! It is an explosion of brass and and dark wood with an extremely ornate bar. There is some high top seating next to the bar, and up a level are some booths and tables. In the summer it has one of the better patios, and you can sit and watch the world go by while sipping your $12.00/ glass wine. Here’s a tip: they have great Happy Hour prices for both booze and food: 4:30-6:30. Here's another tip...the valet parking doesn't cost anymore than the regular parking. Why walk?

Its claim to fame is its raw bar with all sorts of shrimp, crab and oyster goodies if that appeals to you. The menu is also casual with sandwiches such as a Chicken Carpese and Prime Rib French Dip with caramelized onions. That’s we had tonight, and both were ample in size, taste and preparation! In addition, it offers one or two steak choices, some dolled up pasta dishes and several fish sandwich and crab cake selections. Tonight it featured a “to die for” Mushroom and Andouille sausage soup. It was OUT OF THIS WORLD. I am a soup fan, and this goes to the top of my soup nazi list along with the sausage soup from Pittsburgh’s Dish Osteria and the chicken pastine soup from New Castle’s Chuck Tanner’s.

Prices are moderate…with a couple of drinks, two huge sandwiches, and soup, we were out of there for fifty bucks including tax and tip. Not McDonald’s…but then again they don’t have the soup!!!!!!! Here’s another tip: they don’t bring rolls as a matter of course. You have to ask for them. Be sure you do because the rolls are very good.

It draws a nice crowd of folks primarily over 30. It has a relatively classy clientele. Wait staff wears crisp white shirts, black vests and ties. (Is this 1955?) Things seemed a little slow tonight, but then again we were there very early and it is the weekend after the New Year's Holiday. Then there is that ecnomy thing.

The problem is the service is sketchy. I felt sorry for the bus boy who I overheard asking who was the boss for tonight. There seem to be people running all over the place, but it disorganized to a fault…and it has always been that way. The wait staff can be brusque and unattentative. We hadn’t been there for awhile for that reason…and it wasn’t much better tonight.

So…for location, décor, and quality of food Gandy Dancer gets four meatballs. For service, it gets 3 meatballs. That averages out to 3 ½ meatballs. But like I said, we go there alot, and it is our default hangout of choice.

1/2

One more comment on Station Square. That development has been there a long time. I have a special affection for it because the Grand Concourse and Gandy Dancer are in the old P & LE Railroad terminal. When I was small, my folks would often to take me and my brother into Pittsburgh on the train, and I remember many times running across the Smithfield Street Bridge to catch the train back home to Youngstown after shopping all day at Kaufmann’s. My Dad went to the University of Pittsburgh for his graduate degree and did his oral surgery training at UPMC back in the late 1940’s and early 50’s. That's how I got to know my way around the city.

While the restaurant/nightlife side of the development remains very strong. The “shops” side is sadly diminishing. There really isn’t anything in there anymore other than a huge Steelers sports store and a few restaurants such as the Sesame Inn (outstanding Chinese) and Houlihan’s . Much of the retail space has been taken over by a technical college. I am sorry to see this happen to this development which blazed the trail for the likes of Legacy Village in Cleveland, the South Side Works in Pittsburgh and Easton in Columbus.

The good news is it has a killer view of beautiful downtown Pittsburgh unmatched anywhere else. Everything old will one day be new again. Money can’t buy that view!!!!

Gandy Dance Saloon

100 West Station Square Drive

Pittsburgh, PA 15219

My Overstuffed Christmas Holiday

2012-01-02T08:50:00.000-08:00

It has been close to impossible to get out to eat these past few weeks due to too many holiday functions that had me scarfing fast food in between events: or back at places I frequent regularly and have reviewed already; or at private events where we just generally stuffed our faces with…well…stuff. But my sharp and witty comments have been sorely missed by my faithful readers as emails have indicated, so I decided to write about some of the more memorable eating moments of this past holiday season.

Start with the cookies. I come from an Italian family and we always had lots of cookies. My family makes some special ones. One type of cookie is called Ostia…which consists of two wafers similar to large communion wafers stuffed with a nuts, orange rind, chopped chocolate and molasses filling, then cut into wedges. It is a unique cookie. I have only seen them made by folks from my grandmother’s part of Italy. There is also another cookie we call bullets. A dough is made with a little flour and some egg mixed with tons chocolate, orange rind, nuts and whiskey. The dough is rolled out into a log, cut on the diagonal to form diamond shaped cookies then baked. We call them bullets because they tend to get hard as rocks after awhile. My wife solved the problem by adding a dash of oil to the recipe. Now they are just plain heaven on earth. Both of these are the carryover cookies from my youth, and I love them along with the more common but just as delicious pizzelles, biscotti and wedding cookies. Don’t forget the America’s contribution to my Christmas cookie list…seven layer cookies.

At the top of the list of cookies that we buy this time of year are the rainbow cookies, which are cake type cookies in three colors with a fruit filling in between the layers and covered in chocolate. You used to be able to order them online in a loaf from Ferrara’s in NYC’s Little Italy. Now you can only buy them pre-sliced. Jimmy’s on Youngstown’s north side also sells them. Add to the bakery bought list are clothes pin cookies and nut and apricot horn cookies. Classic Bakery does a good job with these. I don’t think you can make them as cheaply as Classic sells them.

Kolachi, baklava, and fruit cake I usually receive as a gift from folks. I am partial to Claxton Fruitcake, available in grocery stores, which is moist and fruity and will make a fruitcake believer out of you. Kolachi and baklava are little different and I tend to be picky. There is a gal named Andrea Reiser in Mercer, Pa. that does a bang up job on these two items. Best baklava I have ever had, and the kolachi is tied for first place. Andrea knows how to bake and offers a limited number of baked goods that are about as good as you can get. She also supplies desserts to Tambellini's in Pittsburgh, so she has to be good. Pastries by Andrea in Mercer, Pa. 724-967-2715 Worth a phone call and the trip!!!!

Best catered affair this season is a tie between Tippecanoe Country Club’s Candlelight Dinner and the Avalon Golf and Country Club - Buhl's (the spectacularly renovated Sharon Country Club) New Year’s Eve event. There is a lot of competition in the Country Club biz in this area in everything from golf to food service. Tippecanoe has always done large affairs well with outstanding buffets as well as sit down affairs. Although Tippy’s Trim a Tree Party is the larger of the two events, the Candlelight Dinner brings back memories of a more genteel time. At either event, the food is unending and beyond reproach. Tippecanoe is my club, and I am justifiably and proudly partial.

Avalon’s New Year’s Eve Party is an all you can drink all you can eat bash where folks are dressed to the nines in their New Year’s Eve finery and rock to the wee hours of the morning with an outstanding band. It is a HUGE party, one of the largest I go to on any regular basis. What is amazing is how adeptly they handle a very large crowd that is apparently recession proof. Although it is a buffet, I have never waited in line for more than a few minutes. The same buffet is set up in two areas of the facility, and starts with wonderful appetizers and ends with medium rare fillet of beef at the carving station. They get better at it every year.

In between the cookies and the nights out are dinners at Springfield Grill, Michael Alberini’s, Alberini’s in Niles, Panera’s, various pizza places….and when rushing between non-food events, dinner at Perkins or Bob Evans.

This year we sampled food from Jimmy’s, Anzevino’s, Rulli’s, Catullo’s, as well as baked goods from Mocha House, Classic Bakery, and the Clarencedale Bakery. We had hors d’oevres at home and in house at Tippecanoe. We had spaghetti out at the MVR and lasagna in, made by my wife for our Christmas Eve dinner. We had smelts and linguini from Patsy’s in Campbell and corned beef from Kravitz in Liberty and Corky and Lenny’s in Cleveland.

We had nuts and cheese from the Youngstown Club. We had shrimp, shrimp, shrimp, and more shrimp. We had chocolate from Gorant’s, Philadelphia Candies and Daffin’s. And we had new decorations in our house from Coventry Lighting, Fellow’s Garden Gift Shop, Something New and Breezewood Garden Center in Bainbridge, Ohio. And yes…we trekked to Kraynak’s in Sharon and noshed on some of the nostalgic candy and cookies found in their miles of aisles.

So now it is time to recover. It will probably be another week or two before I reach a normal schedule as I play catch up on my procrastination. Look for regular reviews to start again in a week or two. In the meantime, join me as I digest, literally and figuratively, all that I have eaten and done this past holiday season.

Happy New Year.

Buon Natale - Italian Christmas Time

2011-12-19T10:58:00.000-08:00

Buon Natale - Italian Christmas Time

Too busy singing with my choir to eat out!!!! New place next week!!!!

CARMELLA'S - BOARDMAN/POLAND; CAFE AT THE FRICK - PITTSBURGH

2011-12-11T19:54:00.000-08:00

CARMELLA’S – BOARDMAN/POLAND

So I was coming out of my therapist’s office the other day and this guy was talking to the receptionist at the “sign your name” window. Oh this place is wonderful. Oh they are so friendly. Oh the Italian food is so good. Oh everything is homemade. I may have left their still nuts, but I now I was definitely hungry. And with only a $10.00 co-pay, I can afford to go out to eat and have good mental health.

That night I grabbed my wife and went to Carmella’s located in the plaza at the corner of South Avenue and Western Reserve Road. It hasn’t been there very long, only a couple of months. I wasn’t sure what to expect. Some of these places can be really good…others real dogs. Carmella’s is in the former.

This is another in a string of mid-priced Italian restaurants serving the Mahoning Valley. It serves Bistro type Italian food which is definitely not northern Italian. These offerings have substance to them. Nothing light here! The sauces are full bodied. More than a few of the dishes are served with peppers for some kick. This is hearty fare probably found mid-boot south.

Competition is fierce in the niche. But I think Carmella’s has a shot. I have only eaten there once, so I don’t want to judge especially since my personal taste goes to the lighter northern Italian cuisine. But the service is outstanding. The people are friendly. Whoever designed the interior deserve a bonus. For a small restaurant, it is an extremely attractive and sophisticated place. And it doesn’t hurt that the food, at least what my wife and I ordered, was good…a little spicy and heavy for me…but then again, that’s a matter of personal preference, not good or bad food.

If you want to try something new, give it a shot. The menu is very well planned. It has a full service bar, reasonably priced wine. I will be going back. Maybe I will see you there. Meatball award next time around.!!!!

Carmella’s Café

850 E. Western Reserve Road

Boardman, Ohio 44512

(330) 758-0544

CAFE AT THE FRICK – PITTSBURGH

From time to time I have used the term “boite” to describe a restaurant. It is a French word that means “box.” In restaurant parlance, it means the restaurant is a small, sophisticated space. Look up the term in the dictionary, and you will see a picture of the Cafe at the Frick. It is a boite in every sense of the word.

The Frick Museum is a small art museum located north of Squirrel Hill in Pittsburgh. It is located in a park like setting and includes the museum, the Frick mansion, and an absolutely stupendous luxury carriage and car collection...all of which are open to the public.

Also located on the premises is the Frick Cafe, which has become a destination restaurant in and of itself. It is located in a small out building in the middle of the Frick complex surrounded by windows on three sides. It is a picture book little jewel box that reminds you of a super mini Tavern on the Green in Central Park. And inside the food is sophisticated and extremely well prepared.

It is a lunch only place opened 11 – 5 Tuesday – Sunday. High tea is served after 2:30. The Cafe is just wonderful place to go for a well deserved afternoon respite from the work a day world. Most attractive to the “ladies who lunch” crowd (no wide screen televisions here), it is also a romantic place for guys to do something special for that certain girl.

While it has a standard menu, specials reflect whatever special exhibit is showing in the museum. When we were there, the special exhibit was a private collection of Faberge, so the menu has Russian specialties to supplement the main menu. Borscht anyone? The menu ranges from sandwiches to hearty soups and lovely salads, and decadent desserts. It also sport lots of champagne cocktails starting with the ever popular Mimosa and creatively taking off from there. What better way to spend an afternoon than sipping wonderful champagne cocktails while noshing on great food!!! It also offers well selected wine choices.

You can order a la carte. There is also a 3 course prix fixe menu priced in the $25.00 range. Although a little on the expensive side for lunch, it is a good value overall when taking into consideration quality, atmosphere, and really tasty food. This isn't a chow down as fast as you can to get back to work lunch place. You want two cheeseburgers for $2.00, go to McDonald's!

This Cafe is definitely popular. Reservations are almost a must, and can be made as late as the same day you wish to visit. Couldn’t afford to eat there every day, but on special occasions, this goes to top of the list.

No meatballs because of its limited service...but I suspect this would be a fiver.

Frick Art and Historical Center

7227 Reynolds Street

Pittsburgh, PA 15208

412-371-0600

Isabela on Grandview - Pittsburgh

2011-11-26T09:18:00.000-08:00

I have a new hero. His name is George Merrick. He owns the luxe restaurant Isabela on Grandview located atop Mt. Washington in Pittsburgh. Mr. Merrick…George….is the quintessential entrepreneur who greets his guests at the front podium treating them like long lost friends, calling them by name, making them feel like a million dollars so that a relatively expensive prixe fix tasting dinner goes down like a spoon full of sugar. He is suave. He is sophisticated. He will take your picture. He will shower you with champagne…and he is 78 years old having just bought the place in 2009 at the height of the financial crisis. Since his purchase, he has turned Isabela’s into THE destination restaurant on Mount Washington having been voted best overall and most romantic restaurant in Pittsburgh in 2010 and 2011.

George is a retired engineering consultant, born in the south and transplanted to Pittsburgh. He liked it so much he decided to stay although his southern roots are demonstrable in his suave behavior and appearance…silver pony tail and all. He got to know the previous owners of Isabela through his consulting business, and when they decided to sell, he decided to buy. He had no intention of spending his senior years in a rocking chair in front of a television set.

Because it was Light Up night in Pittsburgh, it was impossible for us to get a cab back across the river. George pulled his car up to the front door and told me and my wife to hop in. He drove us back to our hotel through the throngs of reveling revelers. The traffic was gridlocked, and we got to talk to George about all sorts of things. What a great guy showing how to give service with a smile and how to make a business succeed.

And what a great restaurant!!! Its kudos are well earned. Isabela is on the cozy side. It has a small bar on the first floor which is sometimes used to hold events if one desires to hold an event. The restaurant is on the second floor, completely surrounded by windows offering stunning views of the city across the river. For as often as I have been on top of Mount Washington, the view is still breathtaking. During Light Up night, all the lights in the all the buildings are turned on in addition to the lights of both stadiums. Words cannot describe how beautiful it is.

The space is small…seating maybe 50 people tops. The chefs are a husband and wife act who had an outstanding reputation before going to work with Mr. Merrick. On the weekends, Isabela offers a “prixe fixe” tasting menu…soup to nuts so to speak…with the guest being offered a choices within the meat course, the fish course, the appetizer course and the dessert course. In between these courses are tasty tidbits that are offered to stimulate the senses and clear the palate. The meal is well paced, not too fast…not to slow…just right!!!!

The food here is innovative. Most of it works, some of it doesn’t. For me, the strongest courses were the fish course and the appetizer course, the corvina fish with bacon brined mushrooms and brussel sprouts was the highlight of the meal. I chose exquisitely prepared scallops for my appetizer course…this is about as good as it gets. My wife chose the pumpkin and baked apple soup…perfect for a fall evening.

The weakest course was the meat course. Of the three offerings, two were wild game. I picked the coffee rubbed elk loin…I didn’t like it. My wife had the veal shank. She said it was good, but not as good as the rest of the meal. If I were to offer George a suggestion, it would be to be a little less adventurous on the meat, offering something like a sliced filet of the cow variety with a port reduction for people like me.

Isabela is not an inexpensive place to eat. It is pricey. But folks, this is dinner as theater. Mr. Merrick and staff provided one of the most enjoyable evenings out my wife and I have had in a long time. With a place like this, it is the totality of the experience that counts. The outstanding food it offers is the surprise bonus. The service is impeccable. Perfect.

If you are looking for that special night out…nix Le Mont and give Isabala on Grandview a try. If it is a special occasion, make sure to tell them when making your reservation. Also check the website to see special peculiarities about the place…for example, no split checks. Valet parking is available for $6.00. But there is street parking and park yourself lots (for a fee) across the street. In addition, if you have Pittsburgh phobia and are afraid of getting lost driving to the top of Mount Washington, you can ride up on the Duquesne Incline located on Carson Street, which will deposit you right in the center of the Mount Washington restaurants. Please note that the Duquesne Incline is NOT the one directly across from the Grand Concourse end of Station Square by the Smithfield Bridge. It is at the other end…the west end… of Station Square. Here is the a link.

Finally a five meatball winner…Thanks George for a great evening.

Isabela on Grandview
1318 Grandview Avenue
Mount Washington
Pittsburgh, PA 15211

Phone: 412.431.5882
Fax: 412.431.5883

Ladies of the Dukes - New Castle, Pa.

2011-11-15T05:06:00.000-08:00

It’s always a hoot discovering new and interesting places in our little corner of the world. Our heavily ethnic area offers all sorts of surprises that bite you in the butt when you go around the corner. These places make you shake your head: a warp speed to the past…a magnificent anachronism that belongs in another time…but there it is nonetheless. And you wonder “How the hell does this place stay in business?” New Castle’s Ladies of the Dukes is that kind of place. All you can do is look puzzled, shrug your shoulders and shake your head...then ask for extra sauce for your spaghetti.

The Ladies of the Dukes is located in Little New York (New Castle, Pa., for us non-residents). You see, back in the early 1960’s, New Castle had this card club consisting of five Italian women who also liked to do good works. They attempted to form a women’s auxiliary to a men’s Italian Club called the Dukes. Those of us of Italian descent know that Italian men don’t like to have their space, and especially their clubs, encroached upon. The ladies’ efforts were not well received. Not to be deterred, the ladies formed their own non-profit organization and called themselves The Ladies of the Dukes. They started selling what they did best…their cooking. They bought a small restaurant, and the rest is history.

Monday through Saturday, you can drive by The Ladies of the Dukes. You can see cars in the driveway. You can look through the windows and see the ladies cooking. But try the door and it will be locked. Banging on the windows won’t help. It’s only open on Sundays…11-6, and serves on average 600 people homemade spaghetti, ravioli, cavatellis and meatballs. A small order comes with one meatball. Large comes with 2 meatballs, and extra large comes with 3 meatballs. All are wonderful. In addition these hard working ladies offer chicken parm…fried chicken…meatball sandwiches…wedding and pastina soup….chicken salad, as well as several desserts.

Now folks…this restaurant isn’t in some church hall. This is a legitimate, stand alone restaurant that is really open one day a week. It’s not particularly fancy but it more than fills the bill for what these women do. It is clean and neat as a pin. The service is a combination Italian grandma down home friendly no nonsense all wrapped up into one. It is referred to as New Castle’s best known restaurant. Hang there long enough, and you will see anyone you need to see if you are a local.

This restaurant proves the maxim “do one thing and do it better than anybody else.” The sauce and homemades are outstanding, about as good as I have had anywhere, including my own kitchen. And that is all that needs to be said about Ladies of the Dukes. Open Sundays from 11:30 – 6:00. Oh yes, be prepared to wait, especially during the "after-church" hours. Oh yes again, The Ladies of the Dukes may be a magnificent anachronism, but they have a website!!!

Because it’s only open one day a week, I am not specifying any meatballs other than to tell you to go there and eat some.

Mangia!!!!!

Vernon's V2 Youngstown (Downtown)

2011-10-31T11:07:00.000-07:00

New businesses in Youngstown are always a good thing, and lately things have been a-poppin'. The closing of the Rosetta Stone was a setback to the downtown entertainment district. But I can personally attest that the failure of the Rosetta Stone was due to bad management as opposed to any problem with downtown. Seriously.

Long time Niles standby Vernon's Cafe is the latest to put an entry into the downtown dining sweepstakes. V2 (V Squared) is located in the newly renovated Federal Building at the corner of West Federal Street and N. Phelps Street. I can tell you upfront, this is a winner and I wish them a lot of luck.

V2 is not a full service restaurant, at least not yet. It is marketing itself as a wine bar/trattoria/bistro type of place. The menu is primarily sandwiches, appetizers (currently known as "small plates"), salads, and maybe two pasta regular entrees. From what I have read, plans are to expand the menu as the kinks are worked out.

This is great space, and you forget you are in downtown Youngstown from the second you walk in the door. It is done in warehouse chic. The ceilings are high. The decorations are modern. You walk into the bar area from the main entrance. To the right is regular seating. Straight and to the left is the large bar area with high top seating. Music is blaring. The crowd convivial and boisterous. This is not a place if you really want to have a serious conversation. I it call "Friday evening cool." The Youngstown area is long overdue for this type of place.

Owner Vernon Cesta knows that you have to closely supervise any restaurant/bar operation, and he has been downtown personally supervising the launch of V2, and it shows. We were there on a Friday night, and the place packed the entire time we were there. Service was great with very little wait time between the time we sat down to the time drink orders were taken. Food service was prompt. The wait staff was knowledgeable about the menu. You can tell when the boss knows what he/she is doing!!

The menu is not sit down dinner type of food. It has a wide variety of burgers and panini's, specialty pizzas, cheese and meat trays, and appetizers such as humus, polenta, spinach and artichoke dip (fabulous) and Arancini do Riso (friend rice balls with cheese...also fabulous...bet you just can't eat one). Everything we tried was well prepared and worth going for again.

This is a really nice addition to the downtown area and should do well. Almost makes me want to relocate my office downtown. Give it a try...use ear plugs...but give it a try.

100 West Federal Street

Youngstown, OH 44503

330-742-5595

West End Bistro - Chagrin Falls

2011-10-22T20:35:00.000-07:00

Today was a beautiful fall day, and my wife and I celebrated the season by spending the day in Chagrin Falls, God's gift to Northeast Ohio. If you haven't been there, go. And if you have the chance, take a ride up Chagrin River Road past the polo grounds all the way to the Hunt Club. Hard to believe you are in Ohio...and hard to believe the money that these folks have. Quick! Call Barack Obama and the Occupy Wall Street folks. Fight the good fight!

But if you need a break from class warfare, how about stopping into the West End Bistro right next door to the Inn at Chagrin Falls. To be honest, it wasn't my intent to go there today. But nature called, and the clerk at the dress shop my wife was shopping in said it was a good place for a light dinner and some wine. Looked like an unbeatable combination to me!!!

West End Bistro is part of the Gamekeeper's Tavern group. It used to have five or six restaurants, but apparently the partners broke up and they divvied up the properties. This guy got the Inn, the Gamekeeper's Taverne, West End Bistro, and 87 West (a lounge with a large patio in back of the Inn).

The centerpiece is Gamekeeper's Taverne. It is heavy duty rustic with interesting entrees, many of which are centered around wild game. It is a tad pricey, and I have had both good and bad experiences there. But in the winter, the place is hard to beat.

So let's talk about the Bistro. Okay...this is a trendy place that features imaginative drink concoctions, wine, and foodie type offerings offered in appetizer portions....better known as "small plates." It is exactly the kind of place I normally eschew. But as I said, it was 4:00 in the afternoon, and the Gamekeeper's didn't open until 5:00 and nature was calling. Any port in a storm!

And what a port it was. It is located in a restored century home next to the Inn. There is a patio out front, and folks were sitting there notwithstanding the cool weather. Go inside there is a bar to the right with a few high top tables done in an eclectic mix of modern and period design. The main dining area is up a flight of stairs. We took a peak and it is as trendy as one would expect. It can sit 40 in a pinch. They had not opened up the floor yet for the evening, so we sat in the bar. The server was congenial almost to a fault. He was deservedly proud of his employer.

I have a theory about "small plates." To me, it seems like a gimmick so they can charge more for smaller portions. If you don't watch yourself, you can spend more money at these kinds of places than going to where they offer normal dinners. That is the case here. It is not cheap. If money is a concern, the lunch menu is a much better deal than the dinner menu.

But it shouldn't be a concern here. Notwithstanding all my trepidations and predispositions to these tapas type eateries, the food here was so damn good you can bet your britches I will be getting my uncool self back there real soon. You can peruse the menus on the web site to get a feel for the kind of things they offer.

We started out with a cup of peppery butternut squash soup served with a dollop of whipping cream. OMG. Wow. We added some more pepper just because. I thought the whipped cream garnish was stupid when I first saw it...but it actually was part of the soup and added an additional creamy texture as well a touch of sweetness. Outstanding.

Next, we ordered a serving of their signature appetizer Hanky Pankys. It is described on the menu as follows: "chevre, herbed cheese & chorizo blend baked on sliced baguette with a fig preserve drizzle." Oh Mama!!! This is the single best appetizer I have ever had in my life. Not much too look at on the plate, but don't be surprised if you want to order another small plate of this stuff. We finished by splitting a house pizza, which consisted of "prosciutto, herbed cream cheese, mozzarella, caramelized onions, fig preserves, greens, shaved cheese blend, toasted pumpkin seeds." Once again, outstanding.

The bill came to about $44.00, including tip, for the two of us....and worth every penny. On the other hand, we kept the bill down by not ordering any wine or cocktails, which would have put the bill into the $60.00 plus range which would be a bit much for "small plates."

That being said, if you are in a foodie mood, and looking to experience exquisite food as opposed to chowing down (or my usual choice...meat and potatoes), you won't get any better than this. And you know what? Not being stuffed to the gills is not a bad thing. If you want volume, try the Golden Corral.

They take reservations. Parking can be difficult during parts of the day, but there is a valet at the bottom of the street for three bucks. Otherwise look for street parking and walk through this picture perfect town.

Four meatballs ++

++

The West End Bistro
79 West Street
Chagrin Falls, Ohio 44022
440.247.3460

Pub Bricco - Akron

2011-10-11T04:57:00.000-07:00

Bricco is an Akron mini-chain offering three different varieties of the same restaurant. The original Bricco is located in downtown Akron (and now in Cleveland). Then there is Café Bricco, which is located in the new Doubletree Hotel in Fairlawn by the Summit Mall. And last but not least is Pub Bricco, located on Merriman Road at the entrance to the Cuyahoga Valley Park System and just about five minutes from Stan Hywet Hall.

If you haven’t visited this wonderful area between Cleveland and Akron, it is worth a trip. The area includes the town of Peninsula and goes north to Hudson…it is a very pretty area with local, state, and national park offerings in all directions. We are very fortunate to have access to these areas every bit as beautiful as anything you would find in New England, especially in the fall.

At any rate, as I spend more and more time in Akron, a function of some volunteer work that I do in addition to my wife’s involvement in one of the embroidery groups associated with Stan Hywet Hall, I am coming to the conclusion that Akron restaurants tend to be a little…let’s say quirky. That’s not good or bad…it just is. For example, there is restaurant in downtown Akron that sells nothing but grilled cheese sandwiches costing up to $12.00…and they are lined up out the door. What recession?

Pub Bricco isn’t quite that, but it also has a gimmick. Its main claim to fame is a list of sandwiches. You choose the main event form of protein (from a beef patty to crab cake) and then you pick from a long list of fixin’s combinations. Not $12.00 grilled cheese, but interesting in its own right!

Pub Bricco is an okay place. It is in a plaza along Merriman Road just before you enter the wilderness that is region’s park system. While its sister restaurants tend to be more “restauranty” with white table cloths, etc…this is a beer and a sandwich joint, albeit gentrified. It absolutely fits the area in which it is located.

It has an outdoor patio. The indside has several dining rooms, but the tables are bare bones and it is dark. There is a fireplace against one wall. Service was good. Prices are reasonable. And the menu, notwithstanding the “one from column A two from column B” approach for sandwiches, offers a hearty selection of appetizers and pub grub to satisfy most pub cravings. I think I would frequent this place a lot in the winter.

Last, but not least, the most important thing about Pub Bricco is that it is located in a location that is restaurant challenged. It is difficult to find places to eat in this part of Akron. Visit Stan Hwyet on Sunday, good luck finding a place open mid Sunday afternoon. There is a Starbucks at the other end of the plaza. And a few non-mainline chains in the area, but that’s about it. So Pub Bricco wins by default.

While these folks give it the old college try, I don't know, it seems lacking on some level. I had a better than average sandwich along with some cheese soup that was not great. Some of the appetizers look interesting and next time I am there I am going to give them a try. And I know I will be back there again because I will be in that immediate area several times over the next few months and there really isn't much to from which to choose!!!

But for right now, Pub Bricco gets a semi-enthusiastic shrug, and 3 ½ meatballs. BTW, it sister restaurants look very interesting with white table cloth service and some interesting menu selections. Maybe I will try one of those.

1/2

Pub Bricco
1841 Merriman Road
Akron, Ohio 44313
Phone: (330) 869-0035
info@pubbricco.com

Chuck Tanner's Restaurant - New Castle, PA

2011-09-25T17:34:00.000-07:00

Named for its baseball legend owner, Chuck Tanner’s Restaurant has been a New Castle, Pa. institution for many years. But there is a problem. If you Google it, you won’t find much. It is listed on several general restaurant sites like Urban Spoon, but other than location and phone number, there isn’t much there. I couldn't find a picture of the place to post. Even on Google maps, there are just a few reviews, one of which is a rant about old building, old people, and old food. Wow!!!!

Maybe the rant was right. Tanner’s is a bit dated. But then again, so am I. This is a 1980’s restaurant still functioning as a 1980’s restaurant in 2011. You know what? I like it. In fact, I like it a lot, and I think I found a new favorite place to go.

My chorus sang in New Castle last night, and I passed Tanner’s on the way to the performance. A friend of mine, who passed away several years ago, told me about it and what wonderful food it had. Back in the day, it was THE place to go, and Carol had lots of stories about her evenings at Tanner’s. So looking for someplace to go this weekend, I loaded up the wife and drove back to New Castle to give Tanner’s a go.

It is a visually interesting building built into the side of a hill (this IS Pennsylvania). The parking lot is on a lower level, and there are lots of steps to reach the front door. There is handicap access and some handicapped parking spaces along the main drag right in front of the building. The style is 1980’s rustic modern? Up close and personal, it is clear the building is due for a redo and upgrade. Right now it might be shabby chic, but it could use some TLC in the future. I am not sure how to describe the general ambience. It kind of reminds me of Wolfie’s or the Rascal House in Florida…both of which are large deli’s.

As you enter the restaurant, the dining room is to the right and the “bar” is to the left. There are some booths in the bar…and what looks like a lunch counter actually is the bar. Sports memorabilia is everywhere, much of which celebrates the astonishing career of its namesake. Even the booth tables in the bar are covered with hundreds of family pictures and photos. There is plenty to look at!!! There are some medium sized flat screen televisions in the bar area providing some background noise.

Once you get over trying to decide if you are in Scandinavia on the outside, or Denny’s and/or a deli on the inside, you get to the food and you forget real fast that you’re doing the time warp. The food is old fashioned and outstanding. Yes, they still offer liver and onions as an occasional special!!!! Tonight they offered stuffed pork chops. And the rather extensive menu takes off from there. There are lots of steaks and chops with heavy Greek and Italian overtones to balance the choices.

I love lamb, and it is offered several ways. I opted for lamb on a stick, charcoal grilled cubes served with rice. It was great. And what was really good, and at the top of my “best ever” list, was the chicken pastine soup with egg, black pepper, and parmesan cheese. OMG. It was to die for in every sense of the word…exactly as my grandmother made it when I was small. I have not had it prepared this way since my grandmother died in 1960. Italian comfort food par excellence!

My wife had pot roast, and it was blessedly served without trendy “garlic” mashed potatoes, just plain mashed potatoes and gravy, thank you. That’s how she likes them. That’s how I like them. The Italian salad dressing is homemade, and wonderful.

The service is adept and friendly. Our waitress has worked there for 32 years, and was helpful and cheerful and we shared some laughs. Prices are moderate plus. Portions are large. This is a good value.

Here’s the deal. If you are looking for a trendy bistro done up in purple and named Prune serving “small plates” and stacked food with techno music playing in the background, this ain’t it!! If you want sushi, go someplace else. Tanner’s may be a little worse for the wear. It may have dated décor. It may have dated food. But it is aces with me.

I am not going to give Tanner’s a meatball rating because I have only been there once. But I can tell you that it is being added to my “go to” restaurant list. I expect to make the twenty mile drive to New Castle often. I can’t wait to taste its spaghetti sauce, also homemade. Chuck Tanner died this past February. I hope the restaurant goes on for a long time.

Give it a try. Word to restaurant management: get a website!!!! A publicist might help too!!!!!!

Chuck Tanner's Restaurant

2305 Wilmington Road

New Castle, PA 16105-1959
(724) 658-5900

The Fireplace - Poland/New Middletown

2011-09-12T20:36:00.000-07:00

The Fireplace Restaurant and Lounge has been a local favorite for a very long time. We reviewed the The Fireplace two years ago after it had changed owners. We liked it…but it apparently it didn’t work out. It is now being operated by the original owners.

When we moved back to town in 1975, EVERYBODY went to the Fireplace on Friday nights. At the time it was located on South Avenue next to the old Point Market. You walked in, and it was pandemonium. Tables were jammed around a fake fireplace which faced a dance floor. Up until 9:00 you waited in line until you number was called: “ Number 22. Your fish is ready!!!” It was the quintessential fish dinner that hangs off the plate for $3.99. After 9:00, the tables were pushed back and it became one of the hottest night spots in the area.

I’m not quite sure how successful the move from the South Avenue location to Western Reserve Road at Five Points was. We followed them there, and on Friday nights they were lined up out the door. As the restaurant choices in Boardman began to build up, maybe that Western Reserve location was a mile too far, and we noticed the crowds weren’t as big, then a little smaller, then a little smaller some more. Then it was sold.

I am thrilled the Campana’s are back running the place. It is still has some of the best food around. It still has the best fried fish around. It still hangs off the plate, although those $3.99 days are long gone. Throw in some cole slaw and some delicious mac’n cheese…that’s good eating.

For those of you who have never been there, you walk through the door and there is a large bar to the left. To the right is a two story arrangement with booths on the lower level and tables on the upper level. The main dining room is in the back. Look straight ahead you will see a fake tree overhanging an area where there is seating part of the time, and where the band plays the rest. The faux fireplace is in the main dining room in the back. There is a patio towards the back and along the side for seasonally appropriate seating. The Fireplace has an aggressive entertainment agenda with top quality bands playing on Friday and Saturday nights.

We go for the food. This is classic Youngstown cuisine with the usual spaghetti, wedding soup, veal parm, sausage sandwiches…you get the picture. Tips Italiano are terrific. All of it is good, which is why I like to go there. But the fish is still the best around. They serve cod as opposed to haddock, and I ALWAYS prefer cod to haddock, but that’s just me! It is delicate and flaky and the breading is good and not overpowering if you get it fried. The Mac n Cheese is like Mom used to make, but it’s better on a Friday as opposed to a Monday (not unusual for any restaurant).

I miss the good old days when the Fireplace was at its old location. Sit at the bar and sooner or later you would see anyone who was worth seeing come through those doors. But I have grown accustomed to the not so new location over the years…and it is still Friday night comfort food. I hope it is there for a long time.

Four Meatballs

The Fireplace
2075 East Western Reserve Road
Youngstown, OH 44514-3275
(330) 757-4042

Scarsella's Restaurant - Youngstown / The Best Sauce in Town

2011-08-30T16:09:00.000-07:00

Scarsella’s has nothing if it doesn’t have staying power. I first visited it in its nondescript location in the Uptown years and years ago. The sauce was primo. Service was ify. The ambience was non-existent. And we kept going for the sauce.

When things got too bad in the Uptown, they moved south down Market Street to what looks to be a former Long John’s Silvers restaurant, and converted it to an Italian restaurant as best they could given the nautical theme. Now the sauce is primo. Service is ify. The ambience is non-existent. And we keep going for the sauce. The more things change….

Of course when dealing with homestyle Italian cooking in Youngstown, the only thing that counts is the sauce. There is nothing outstanding about Scarsella's, which is what makes it so good. In fact, it is the best I have had out anywhere. Just a fresh tomato taste not overpowered by anything! The meatballs are the same way. It is about the only place in town where I will actually eat the meatballs. I have never walked away from Scarsella’s with any kind of after taste in my mouth, saying you could really taste the garlic or the oregano or the basil. Things are balanced.

But let’s be honest. This is not fine dining. It is a family run establishment that doesn’t have a liquor license. Plastic checkered table cloths are the de rigueur along with a few pictures of Italy hanging on the wall. The building itself can use a redo. And the service leaves a lot to be desired. They tend to bring the plates of food out one at a time…and if they are busy…prepare to sit a spell.

That being said, you get great greens and fried cheese and homemades and really good chicken parmesan. And when you dive into that plate of homemade spaghetti, you tend to forget that the overall presentation of the place leaves something to be desired. That is a testament to how good the sauce is!! These folks know how to do down home Italian cooking. (Scarsella's sells both commercial and homemade spaghetti. Opt for the homemades. Just like Grandma used to make).

It also serves as a meeting place at lunch for various Italian organizations in town. The guys get together for lunch at a long table in the center. You can soak up some of the true local Italian culture when they are there and you are there. Which reminds me…it has great lunch portions so if you are looking for someplace different for lunch…this is the place.

For its wonderful food and spaghetti sauce, this should get 4 meatballs. But I got to knock it down a ½ for its other misdeeds. But at the end of day, I am reminded about an old Italian guy parking cars at an Italian restaurant in Cape Cod. We stopped to ask if the spaghetti was any good. He answered: “You wanna good food, you stay. S’no…keepa goin!” My sentiments exactly.

1/2

Scarsella's Restaurant
4151 Market Street
Youngstown, OH 44512-1117
(330) 788-0806

Danny Boy's - Boardman

2011-08-15T17:36:00.000-07:00

If you go to Danny Boy's expecting this:

Don’t be surprised when you get this:

There’s a new upstart semi-chain Italian restaurant in town…and it’s in it to win it. I always wondered about outside Italian restaurants opening in Youngstown. Gives new definition to the phrase Carrying Coals to New Castle…or should I say Carrying Cavatelli to Calabria. But "sum a ma bitch", this place pulls it off.

Located on Rt. 224 in the old Jeremiah Bullfrog’s, I didn’t know what to expect when I went there the first time. I had never heard of the place. I thought who in their right mind would go into a space that apparently had some bad vibes. It didn’t look like much from the outside. But my son and I wanted to try something new, and our jaws dropped to the floor when we walked through the door.

This place is a shrine to just about every Rat Pack, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Godfather, Goodfellas cliché that exists. They couldn’t get one more piece of memorabilia on the wall if they tried. And that ain’t no rock music coming through the sound system. The music is exactly what you think it would be given the décor. Goombah chic…call nona and tell her we are goina Youngs-a-town for some pizz. Where did they buy this stuff? And I can tell you that the locals here are going to eat this up, literally and figuratively. Of course they would come to Youngstown…where else could you do this and look normal? Even its phone number spells FRANK…at all of its restaurants!!!

Danny Boy’s is a chain out of Rocky River, Ohio. Including Boardman, it has five locations throughout northern Ohio. It is a pizza joint on steroids. The menu is huge. The portions are huge. The prices are moderate. And most importantly, the food is good…and the service is good. These folks know what they are doing.

The specialty, of course, is pizza. It has regular, deep dish and thin. I have both the regular and the deep dish Chicago…which come complete with a 14 inch sausage patty. Both are outstanding, and will give other local pizza establishments a run for their money. But the menu is filled with calzones, and salads, and melts…with all sorts of corny names like the “Hammy Davis, Jr. Melt” (someone got paid to come up with that) and the Luca Brasi (a chicken parm sub…it will make you swim with the fishes). I didn’t know whether to cringe, laugh, cry, or run for cover!!!!! It takes some time to go through the menu. It has an entrée section, but small with items like the Perfectly Frank Fettuccini, and Blue Eyes Mac ‘n Cheese. Madonna Mia.

Danny Boy’s runs smoothly. The staff is friendly and knowledgeable. The Ta-Da girls at the front desk could use a little personality, but the wait staff is outstanding. WARNING WARNING WARNING: Danny Boy's is family friendly, so expect lots of little darlin’s scarfing down the pizza and Fly Me to the Moon foldovers.

I am not a big gimmick fan, but this place has won me over with its good natured kitsch, but mostly with its really good food. Best of luck to owners Joe Alexander, Scott Nanosky and Camille and Laurie Chamoun. Give it a try.

Four pizza pie meatballs

Danny Boy's
1315 Boardman Canfield Road Youngstown, OH 44512
Hours:
Monday - Thursday: 11 am - 10 pm
Friday & Saturday: 11 am - 11 pm
Sunday: 12 pm - 9 pm
330-726-FRANK (3726)

Drake's Landing - Canfield/Boardman

2011-08-01T17:05:00.000-07:00

I really wanted not to like Drake’s Landing. To start off, that part of Western Reserve Road is somewhat desolate. It was a turf farm for years and years, and all of the trees were obviously chopped down. It is part the headwater area for Mill Creek. It is barren and flat. I thought when they built the restaurant there it looked stupid. And the signage was hard to see. I went there with my office for lunch once, and it was okay. But it gave me the ho-hums. On the other hand, I heard lots of people say nice things about the place, and I kept hearing how pretty it was. Really? Really!!!

I was wrong. Went there for dinner the other night and it was a great experience. Let’s start with this is just a really, really pretty place. The restaurant itself is pretty with large windows overlooking the patio which overlooks a beautiful lake. The lake serves as sort of a wild life refuge fueled by Mill Creek Park’s purchase of surrounding land to establish another of its wetlands projects. The fowl love the lake, and put on quite a show. It is especially pretty at sunset. Sitting out on the patio enjoying your dinner you may start to think you are in a documentary on the Animal Planet!!!!

Another thing that struck me was how helpful and friendly the staff was. The ta-da girls at the hostess station were smiling and welcoming…and in this area that is a true accomplishment. It makes a major difference when you enter a place and feel welcomed rather than treated like an inconvenience to a twenty something snip who is trying to figure out station assignments. The server was equally pleasant, and did an outstanding job.

And the view through the windows is wonderful. It is calming and I can imagine even in the middle of winter it would be just as beautiful. We didn’t eat on the patio, but the view through the windows is just fine.

Dinner was very good. We eat out a lot and I get a tad jaded from time to time. The menu appeared to be somewhat limited, but had a nice balance between entrée’s and lighter flair. I had the prime rib, and they didn’t screw it up, and I mean that in the most complimentary manner. Just serve it like it was ordered, and all will be fine. It was very good. My wife had salmon prepared very simply…also very good. Drake’s Landing offers a variety of interesting appetizers from Ahi Tuna Bites to Italian Peppers, which my wife said were the best she had ever had out. And that is a compliment. I noticed they serve Cod six different ways. Next time I go to Drake's Landing, I am going to ixnay the prime rib, and go for the Cod, my favorite kind of fish. Prices are surprisingly on the moderate side and compare well to other comparable restaurants in the area.

But at the end of the day, even if the food was just good, and not very, very good which it is, the atmosphere, the friendliness of the staff, and the magnificent view make Drake’s Landing a place you should visit often. I am only sorry it took me so long to get there.

A very water fowl studded four meatballs.

Drake’s Landing
2177 West Western Reserve Road
Canfield, OH 44406
(330) 729-9757

Famous Dave's Barbeque - Five Meatball Ribs in North Olmstead, Ohio

2011-07-26T16:32:00.000-07:00

Fox News’s morning program, Fox and Friends, has been featuring Barbeque on the Plaza periodically over the past few weeks. The fixin’s and yummies were provided by Famous Dave’s Barbeque, a chain of more than 180 restaurants in over 37 states. Dave is a hoot, and the ribs looked absolutely delicious. He grilled those suckers right there caddy corner from Radio City Music Hall, and gave me hankering that would not go away.

Now I am particular about my barbequed spare ribs. The best ribs I have had were at the Royal Oaks on Oak Street. An historic dive bar with the Ohio Pig Factory barbeque recipe, the owner smokes the ribs for hour and hours, and then serves 'em up with some terrific barbeque sauce. But you have to call in advance to see if they have them, then get there in a hurry before they are gone. Another local favorite is Charlie Staples. Me? Not so much!! Staples uses a vinegar based sauce. I prefer a sauce with honey or molasses. But other folks swear by ‘em!!

I am also picky about the texture of my ribs. I am not the fall off the bone type. I like the ribs to be meaty, and with a little chew to them so you can bite them off the bone without all of the meat falling off forcing you to eat the ribs with a fork rather than your fingers. But that’s just me. Unfortunately, other than the Royal Oaks, I haven’t been able to find ribs around here that fill the bill. Most of the places either simply grill the ribs, which makes them tough…or steam the ribs first, which makes the braised. And the sauces…some places should just stick with spaghetti sauce.

So after watching Dave cook his famous ribs on television a couple of times, I got on the internet to see if there was a Famous Dave’s around here. The closest I could find was in North Olmstead, Ohio, which for those of you who have never left Youngstown, is west of Cleveland off of 480 about five miles past Cleveland Hopkins Airport. It’s about 80 miles from my house…do-able if nothing you can find satisfies your craving. So I fired up the Acura, and headed west to North Olmstead burning some premium gas.

Oh Lordy…was it worth the trip. I found barbeque nirvana. Now I know why Famous Dave is famous. I absolutely did not expect this quality of food from a chain. Outstanding!

The restaurant itself has been there for awhile and is larger than it looks. It has a large bar area and three different dining rooms. It is decorated in early “barbeque yahoo” with lots of tables and booths. Here’s the thing. The place is packed. It is kid friendly, not usually a good thing for me. But it absolutely civilized and one of the quietest restaurants I have been in in a long time, allowing my wife and myself to have some conversation not having to shout over a din of noise and/or music. I was pleasantly surprised given the wait was over an hour when we left.

The service is friendly and knowledgeable and prompt. The place offers six or seven different types of barbeque sauce from Devil’s Spit (atomic) to Georgia Mustard (that vinegar sauce thing) to Sweet and Zesty to Rich and Sassy, and our favorite Texas Pit which had a black pepper kick. You are given a small bowl of potato chips to allow you sample the sauces, and they will fix the barbeque anyway you want with any of the sauces.

And those ribs…I died and went to pig heaven. They are smoked for 8 hours. They are HUGE and meaty like I have never seen before, and perfectly grilled before bringing them out to the table. Watch the full slab…you could feed an army. My wife and I and each got a ½ slab, and neither of us could finish our dinner which included a yummy corn muffin, corn on the cob, and we chose baked beans (best out I have ever had out) and cole slaw. It was absolutely perfect!!!!!!! We finished dinner with a huge bread pudding made on premises which was totally smooth…almost like a cake…served with ice cream and a praline sauce with toasted pecans. Lord, you can take me now!!!! And if I eat much more like that…he probably will.

Famous Dave’s is located in a huge shopping area akin to what is in Niles, except on steroids. It doesn’t have an address that is picked up on either Google Maps or Mapquest. If you decide to go, use the directions you can get from the web site…but mostly you turn right off the freeway…then left at the major intersection just past the mall…then down a long boulevard past the Home Depot. Famous Dave’s will be on the left.

This place gets five meatballs for best in class…and best in barbeque spare ribs. If you come across one on your travels, give it a go.

Famous Dave's Barbeque
26410 Great Northern Shopping Center
North Olmstead, Ohio 44070
440-777-0200

Up A Creek - Howland, OH

2011-07-12T19:18:00.000-07:00

Here is what I learned at age 61. I am way too old to handle tribute band Jimmy Buffett concerts at the Warren Amphitheater. Not that 61 is too old for anyone else, but if you really don’t like large crowds, get claustrophobic in a group, don’t like super loud music or screaming bimbos with various anatomy parts falling in and out of love, and need someone to yell “incoming” when flying Frisbees and bouncing beach balls hit your teeth and pound your neck…Jimmy Buffett concerts aren’t really for you. Who knew?

But the next best thing might be Up a Creek located in Howland, Ohio. If I were reviewing for a pub crawl, this would be a five meatball winner. This beach bungalow tavern located on a secluded lot on East Market Street (old Rt. 82) is a surprise to me, although my son has known about it for a number of years. Complete with a lively interior bar surrounded by big screen televisions, and an outstanding outdoor patio and bar, on a warm summer’s night this place is hang out city.

I haven’t visited Up a Creek on a weekend. I can only imagine that is “slightly” less laid back at 9:00 on a Friday night. But early on a Wednesday evening in July, the patio is about as laid back as you can get with a comfortable crowd enjoying summer as it deserves to be enjoyed.

Here’s the thing. Up a Creek apparently strives to me more than a bar. It has an extremely ambitious menu for a tavern complete with daily specials that you normally wouldn’t find in a tavern/bar operation. Granted the menu is loaded with all sorts of pub food replete with wings, burgers, pizza and the like, but it tries to gourmet it up a bit. I mean c’mon. Home made potato chips drizzled with a balsamic reduction topped with blue cheese and candied pecans…not your typical hot chips!!! There is lots of stuff you are going to want to try, including the ever popular spinning bowl salad, but you are just going to have to make several trips ‘cause you can’t eat that much in one trip!!!

The downside to the place is that at the end of the day, this is still primarily a liquor operation. The inside space seemed to be cavernous and very loud, even though it wasn’t particularly busy, and given northeast Ohio weather, more often than not that is where one would end up. And the wait staff doesn’t seem to be particularly adept or friendly. They are okay…but one would want a little personality along with the service. After all, it is a bar and you are there for a good time.

The food was well prepared. I actually ordered and got a well done burger; and there are several ambitious varieties from which to choose. My wife had a hot sausage sandwich that filled the bill. Prices are more than reasonable, with the most expensive on the menu being around $15.00 with most items under $10.00.

Although it would never make the list of places to go for fine dining and quiet conversation, it definitely moves to the top of the list for going out with some friends and having a good time…with lots more to choose from than wings and pizza, and all done well. Candied pecans and blue cheese on the hot chips, really? Only been here once! Meatball award after next visit when I can try the marinated sirloin steak! I bet it's going to be great.

Anyone up for a Jimmy Buffett concert?

Up A Creek
4793 East Market Street
Howland, Ohio 44424
330-856-5135

Ken Stewart's Grille - Akron, Oh

2011-06-27T18:38:00.000-07:00

The events of this past week gave my wife and I good reason to celebrate. So I went to the bank to refinance the house, and we drove to Ken Stewart’s Grille in Akron to spend some money and do some serious eating. Although I had heard lots of good things about it, for some reason we never got around to making the trek to Akron. It is apparently an Akron institution. I tried to find some history, but was unsuccessful. I always like to know what makes a place a local institution. Maybe just “being” is sufficient enough.

I didn’t know what to expect. It is an interesting place. From the décor and style of building, I am going to guess it has been there since the late 1970’s. It looks small from the outside, but looks are deceiving. Parking is across the side street in a lot marked restaurant parking, and the main entrance is on the side of the building. As you walk in the door, you are greeted by a bevy of ladies working the hostess desk. You should have reservations here on the weekend. It is a busy, busy place.

An attractive and surprisingly large bar is to your left. There is a lot of dinner seating in the bar, but I am not sure if that is reserved seating or first come first served. My preference is usually eat in the bar area, and next time I will make sure to ask when calling for reservations. The dining room is attractive, but reflects the period in which the restaurant was built. They don’t make ‘em like this anymore. Along one wall is a row of private booths, which are great for if you are looking to do a little romance without being in front of God and everybody!!!! Each of the booths has a quirky painting on the wall, I assume painted by the owner…but who knows?

We were promptly seated at one of these booths, and after the waitress took our drink order, the manager of the restaurant came over and said that someone else had reserved that booth, and they would like us to move to the next booth down. Ooookaaay. That happened to me only once before…30 years ago at Alberini’s in Niles. It is a bit disconcerting. But what are you going to do? Say no? So we obliged the house and in turn the house bought us a round of drinks. That being said, it never should have happened at a place like this.

The interior décor of the restaurant is really, really pretty; but Dude, it’s like doing the time warp. It is eclectic. You can’t put a “style” name to it except that you would be comfortable in this kind of a place if it were 1975. I loved it, but I am sixty. But the young folks in the bar seemed right at home, too. So what do I know? There is a stylized picture of Ken Stewart at the top of the menu. Looks a little psychedelic to me!!! The waitress said that was him back in the day.

Let’s talk about the food. It is good. It is expensive. And there is lots of it. Although Ken Stewart’s serves steaks and chops, it is much, much more than a steakhouse. The menu is varied with lots of interesting things from which to choose. It is semi ala carte. A house salad comes with the meal, but the sides are extra and big enough to serve at least three.

We started the meal with baked brie covered with a marmalade and served with a miniature loaf of French bread. It was portioned big enough to share with four. My wife then had the house salad which she said was pretty good. I opted out of the salad and ordered a tomato bisque soup served with a mammoth puff pastry that covered the top of the very ample soup bowl. Soup was outstanding…the pastry was good and “crummy”.

For an entrée, my wife ordered encrusted walleye and I chose veal piccata. She reported the walleye was the best she ever had, and the veal was simply outstanding. It was butter tender served in a subtle lemon, butter and caper sauce. Often times with veal piccata the component parts jump out at you. Not here. It was a perfect blend with obviously quality veal.

For sides we ordered a superb twice baked potato, big enough for three, stuffed with cheddar cheese and bacon (heart healthy people not allowed) and roasted Brussel Sprouts which were out of this world. Again, you could serve three from the portion brought to the table.

For dessert, we split a coconut sorbet, which tasted like coconut…not like a pina colada as I suspected it would. Homemade and terrific!! Again, portion big enough for at least two.

Folks, this place is pricey which makes it an event restaurant. Entrees range from $19.00 and up…mostly up!!! Mid range would $30.00 plus. BUT…you get what you pay for, and the food meets the expectations. Wine by the glass is in the $8.50 range. You probably would do better buying a bottle, but I am not much of wine drinker so I go by the glass!!!!

Service was very good. Our waitress was helpful and friendly, especially after the unintended table move!!!! Other people reviewing the restaurant mentioned that service could be quirky, and I could see that happening as the visits from the server became much less as the crowd in the restaurant increased. But I had no complaints tonight.

One other thing…the place seems to be “matriarchal.” Other than the bus boys, we did not see one male waiter or host or manager…all women. I asked the server if any males worked there. She named two, but they were off tonight leaving the women folk to hold down the fort, so to speak. That is unusual because my experience is that the more expensive the restaurant, the more likely the wait staff will be men. Just an observation…. You should also know that Ken Stewart's is renowned for its wine list. There is patio dining in the summer.

There are two other Ken Stewart restaurants in the area, both located in Bath to the north of Akron. Tre Belle is Italian and the other is called The Lodge, which is the Grille gone casual. (That being said, the people were not dressed as the price scale would indicate they should. Sign of the times).

Ken Stewart’s Grille would have gotten five meatballs, but I knocked one meatball off for the table blunder which is inexcusable at these prices, but added a ½ back in for the round of drinks which followed.

1/2

Save your rubles and give it a try.

Ken Stewart’s Grille
1970 West Market Street
Akron, OH 44313
330-867-2555

Max's Allegheny Tavern - Pittsburgh

2011-06-17T20:36:00.000-07:00

It’s the middle of June and the season of the White Nights…the longest days of the year. So I got my honey and shuffled off to Pittsburgh to enjoy the extra hours of daylight. What should we eat tonight? German food sounded good given that I was wearing my liederhausen and all. So we thought we would pay a visit to Max’s Allegheny Tavern, a dining landmark on Pittsburgh’s north side.

Max’s Allegheny Tavern has a long and checkered history. The business itself was started as a saloon in another nearby location in the early 1800’s as various groups, including the Germans, migrated across the river from Pittsburgh to live in the fashionable Allegheny City. As the area grew, the saloon moved to the current location and morphed into a hotel. Ownership changed hands several times as the building changed from a hotel to a speakeasy back to a hotel with a reputation for good food.

Pittsburgh annexed Allegheny City as ownership of the business changed hands, with the current owners coming onto the scene in the 1970’s. They put a bunch of money into the place restoring it in every detail and taking advantage of all of the accoutrements that came with the premises from ice boxes to an absolutely exquisite bar. The place is living history. It also serves lots and lots of German food and beer and reasonable prices. I am sure that many of you who go to the Pirates or Steelers games have frequented Max’s Allegheny Tavern more than once as it is located relatively close to the stadiums.

I really wanted to like this place. It IS a Pittsburgh institution, and receives rave reviews from just about anybody who goes there. But for me… not so much.

My wife and got there about 6:00, and were greeted by the ta-da girl at the desk with a scowl that went to the floor. I didn’t know that we had done anything wrong but walk into the door and asked for a table for two. She looked perturbed that we were there. She then studied her seating chart, and led us to undoubtedly the worst table in this relatively large restaurant…right off of the central traffic aisle next to a serving station in front of the woman’s restroom with air conditioner blowing hurricane force wind across the table. And the place was ½ empty. There were plenty of other tables. So we do what we normally do when faced with that issue, we picked up the menus and silverware and moved to another table in the room across the room.

Let’s talk about the room. There are several dining areas in the restaurant, all of which are extremely attractive including a spectacular bar with numerous booths for two that were empty. Then there was this room where we were, which was barren and cold and only had one other party in it…a table of six with several children. It was downright depressing. The room was just plain dismal and obviously an add on.

The waitress was cordial enough, but we felt positively weird. We made the best of it, and ordered some very good German beer that was on tap recommended by the waitress. The menu is extensive and impressive, mostly German with a few Italian items thrown into the mix. It includes everything from Wursts to Corned Beef to Hot Dogs to Burgers to Schnitzels. My wife ordered Weiner Schnitzel with red cabbage and I ordered the Jager Schnitzel (schnitzel with a mushroom gravy) both of which were just fine. Schnitzel is schnitzel, and as schnitzel goes, this was good. For a side, we both ordered potato pancakes. They were okay, but I have had much better. Dinner rolls were dry, but served with a wonderful apple butter which sort of made up for it. For dessert, we ordered something called an Italian love cake…which was a chocolate cake layered with ricotta and frosted with this spectacular chocolate icing. This was really, really, really good. It looked dry, but it was as moist as can be, and not too sweet so you could actually enjoy it. Oh yes, the Einlauf soup is very good…chicken soup with dumplings…served piping hot, delicately seasoned, just the way I like it.

But here’s there thing. German food, in and of itself, is not particularly exciting no matter where you go. You go to a German restaurant mostly to experience the atmosphere and have some fun. Those of you that know Columbus think Schmidt’s Sausage Haus in German Village. Sitting in a cold, both figuratively and literally, sterile room is not fun. Not even the piped in music reached the room…just the whining little darlin’s from the table next to ours. A piece of schnitzel with a potato pancake cannot make that kind of a situation any better or enjoyable. There are other German restaurants in Pittsburgh that offer a better total experience. You shouldn’t have to ask for it. It should be offered to you as a matter of course. If the restaurant is filled, that's one thing. But this place was 1/2 empty.

I cannot in conscience recommend Max’s. Maybe it’s different on another night. Maybe it’s different if there is a home game at one of the stadiums. Maybe it’s different if a different hostess that could actually smile greeted you at the door and worried more about the experience of the guest than obviously trying to somehow equalize out station assignments in an add on room. And they ought to get rid of that table. That should not be foisted on anyone coming into your restaurant to spend money.

Maybe I will try it again. Maybe I won’t. If you go, don’t hesitate to speak up if you are not satisfied with seating arrangements. Pretty surroundings can make a piece of schnitzel go down a whole hell of a lot easier.

Max’s Allegheny Tavern

537 Suisman Street

Pittsburgh, PA 15212

412-231-1899

Los Gallos - Boardman

2011-06-07T10:45:00.000-07:00

Let’s start with I don’t like Mexican food. And I feel bad about that, because most everyone else does. My friends tell me that I don’t like Mexican food because I have never had good Mexican food. Well, there was always Chi Chi’s. Of course, it went out of business after an e-coli scare. Then there is Taco Bell. A friend of mine is a franchisee and does an outstanding job of quality control and freshness and runs a class operation…but I just don’t like Mexican food.

The latest in the long line of local Mexican Restaurants is Los Gallos, now with three locations…on Route 224 next to Summitville Tile; also a little past the intersection of Market Street Extension and Western Reserve Road; and as I understand they will also be opening a restaurant in downtown Struthers in the grouping with DiVito’s and Selah. A branch is also located in Bedford, Ohio.

Did I tell you I don’t like Mexican food? Well I don’t. That is why I have avoided going to Los Gallos for dinner even though it is probably one of the most popular restaurants in Boardman. And when the Mariachi band is there, you can’t get near the place! On the other hand, it is about a minute walk from Mahoning County Republican Headquarters…just down the stairs from the next door parking lot…and many Republicans DO like Mexican food and especially Margaritas! So instead of killing the party, so to speak, I would join my friends post political smoke filled room for a little libation and some corn chips.

So…I needed a place to write about for this week’s column, and storms were circling the area making me not want to drive too far from home. I said to my wife “Wife…let’s give Los Gallos a go!” And we did.

These folks really know what they are doing. They are extremely friendly from the minute you walk through the door to the very well informed servers who know their stuff. Many native Mexicans work there. And the food is very, very good.

The place itself is decorated cantina style and looks really old world Mexico. It is has a large bar which is towards the back of the restaurant, and lots and lots of booths. There is an outdoor front patio for nicer weather, and it was packed last night.

The menu is expansive. And because I don’t like Mexican food, I didn’t know what 90% of the stuff was, so my wife and I played it safe with a fajitas. She had chicken. I had steak. OMG. The plates came heaping with food. It was enough to feed two people, and even three if using it as a light snack late at night. It comes with rice, tomato and lettuce relish, refried beans, sour cream and guacamole. No cheese. You have choice of flour tortillas or corn tortillas, which are somewhat lighter. It is a lot of food!!!! It runs around $14.00 and worth every penny.

The restaurant has a fairly extensive steak menu which appeals to me, with all sorts of interesting combinations of Mexican overtones. As to the rest of the menu, I really don’t know, because I don’t like Mexican food. I did tell you that, didn’t I? But my son, who likes it more than me, assures me it is all top notch and well prepared.

Los Gallos offers a full service bar with an extensive list of Mexican beer on tap and in bottles. This is just a really fun place for those who like Mexican food, and also for those who don’t.

Oh ya. It is worth it to go just for a night cap and an order of fired ice cream, which is wonderful and big enough for two or even three!!!!!

Los Gallos gets a resounding 4 Mexican meatballs, even though I don’t like Mexican food!

Los Gallos
685 Boardman-Canfield Road
Boardman, OH 44512

Telephone:(330) 965-1307
(locations also in North Lima, Ohio and Bedford, Ohio)

Leo's Reserve Inn - Hudson, Ohio

2011-05-15T20:06:00.000-07:00

White table cloth city tonight, baby!! Somebody paid me and I was feeling flush…so me and my honey decided to upgrade the food level a tad and drive in the rain to Hudson, Ohio, exactly 45 miles from my driveway. Hudson is a great little town between Cleveland and Akron filled with great shopping, schools with the word “academy” in their name, and lots and lots of expensive real estate. Sprinkled in the mix are several interesting restaurants from bargain Mexican to an uber trendy tapas bar. (Check out the Rosewood Grill review for another great Hudson restaurant)

I wanted to try something that was upscale, familiar, adult oriented, but not so trendy as to make me feel I need a trip to the plastic surgeon to take some wrinkles off of my face and take away two of my double chins. After perusing the internet, I decided to give Leo’s Reserve Inn a try.

Let’s say that what I was expecting, and what we got were two different things. I have driven past this place for years. The sign out front is 1950’s neon modern…it might as well say “Airport Bar and Grill”. Obviously the outside of the restaurant had to have been remodeled because it looks like an Amish place you might find in Columbiana. “I will have the hot turkey sandwich, please!” I went to the unremarkable website, also looking like this should be one of those home cookin with fixin’s places. You know…fruit pies thickened with lots of corn starch and tapioca!!!!!

But the posted menu and the reviews on Trip Advisor belied what my senses told me, so I thought we would give it a try. I didn’t know what to expect. So we overlooked the tacky website. We drove past the tacky neon sign. We parked next to the Amish styled building and walked into…well…into an absolutely sophisticated space that didn’t look anything like the pictures on the website. (If they did the site themselves, they should hire someone to fix it. If someone they hired designed the site, get somebody else quick!) It was exactly the kind of place I wanted to be tonight.

As you walk in the door, there is a dining room to the left, and a bar to the right. The dining room is plain but tasteful. The bar is to the right, and it is upscale in every sense of the work. The clientele is somewhat older than the tapas bar around the corner, but these are folks I am comfortable with enjoying a restaurant where you can actually hear yourself talk while eating some great food. It is just fancy enough.

It takes reservations, recommended on the weekends. Request a booth in the bar. We got there very early so we got seated without too much trouble, but most of the tables were reserved for the evening. This is not a moo-moo place that turns tables umpteen times as you gulp down your food.

The menu is well thought out, and would be classified “American”. Translate: If want veal parm…go down the street. Although we didn’t meet the chef, he spent a considerable amount of time at the table next to us. His heritage is apparently Native American. He loves to talk about his cooking. And he offers numerous specials that don’t appear on the menu, so listen closely when the server gives you the run down.

The appetizers are fascinating. We had baked olives with onions and tomatoes in vinaigrette. It is served hot, so it is a little disconcerting. You could just eat appetizers and a salad and call it a night (like tapas?). This is a well thought out selection.

Next my wife had a Caesar salad and I had French onion soup. To be honest, the onion soup was not that great, but my wife’s salad was terrific. For our main course, my wife chose walleye served with black eyed peas. I had an expertly prepared hanger steak served with baked au gratin potatoes served in a wedge.

Here’s the thing. Everything was very good…nothing was WOW. The garnish on the steak was some annoying green shredded stuff that wasn’t really needed and a little irritating. The potatoes were good, but I have had better. My wife’s walleye was good, but again, she has had better. And they didn’t serve bread…and I need my carbs with my meal. Not serving bread or rolls is just plain strange. When I asked for some, they brought out some corn bread…which again was good, but I have had better.

So here’s the deal. I would definitely go to the Reserve Inn again. The total package of good food and the wonderful atmosphere and absolutely outstanding and friendly service makes it worth the 45 mile drive. It is a little on the pricey side. It is an ala carte menu. And for a place like this, you should expect nothing else.

One secret….IT HAS THE BEST DAMN COCONUT CAKE I HAVE EVER EATEN IN MY LIFE!!!!!! In fact, it the best piece of restaurant cake of any kind I have ever had in my live. Homemade on the premises, if I were the owners, I would put on that neon sign out front…"Home of the World’s Best Damn Coconut Cake."

It is SINFUL. We think we figured it out. Cubans have a specialty cake called three leches cake, which is a cake made with three kinds of milk…regular milk, sweetened condensed milk, and evaporated milk. The number of “leches” goes up as the baker gets creative to include whipping cream and coconut milk…now a five leches cake. The trick to these cakes is to pour the milk mixture over the cake and let it sit while the cake sops up the milk. Sound yucky, but the result is a cake that is creamy and rich and decadent. Throw in two tablespoons of rum and whoa mama!!! Layer it…add coconut and you have one of the richest and creamiest cakes you can imagine. We don’t know if that is what this is…but we have our suspicions. If it isn’t, whoever bakes for them is the best baker in the world, and we had fun digging up some recipes to try at home!!!!!!

I was going to give it 3 ½ meatballs until I had the cake, which bumped into the 4 meatball category.

The Reserve Inn
30 West Streetsboro Street
Hudson, OH 44236
Phone: 330.650.1717

Molly's Restaurant - Youngstown's West Side

2011-05-10T20:08:00.000-07:00

Okay…gas is $4.00/gallon and my wallet has taken a hit. My lunch money has been rationed, and my wife wants to cook at home. OMG!!!! What’s a body to do? In Youngtown the answer is easy. Look for some of those wonderful taverns that are sprinkled around the city, and eat well for less in friendly and historic surroundings. We found one in Struthers two weeks ago. This week we found another.

Molly’s has been a lower west side standby for over 30 years. Located just a little ways past where Steel Street turns into Salt Springs Road, this place is a hoot. My son went there with some of his buddies from work…the Board of Elections knows where to find good, affordable food….and told me Molly’s was worth a visit.

So on Saturday night my wife and I decided to give it a go before going to see Forever Plaid downtown. Off we went, dressed in our business casual duds….me in an open suit…and my wife looking great as always with some big chunky jewelry. When we pulled into the parking lot, we knew we were WAAAYYY over dressed. But we went in anyway, and we had a great time.

First off, the waiter came over and looked at us and said, and this is a quote: "You have never been here before, have you!” And then we all had a good laugh. What a great guy. He made us feel immediately at home, giving a history of the place, and some tips as to what to order off the menu. The people in the next booth chimed right in, also offering suggestions and telling us stories about the place.

We settled on a hot sausage and peppers sandwich with the sausage made on the premises, although the Saturday special stuffed pork chop looked tempting. The waiter also brought us a side dish of their spaghetti; again the sauce made on premises….and of course the obligatory peppers in oil. My son told us the wedding soup was the best he had ever eaten out…but we were a tad dressed up and the way I eat, soup was probably not a good idea.

My wife ordered a chardonnay. Well, you aren’t going to get that at Molly’s. You have a choice or Riunite white or lambrusco…and it comes the way Italians are supposed to drink wine…in a glass. My bourbon and water came with some accoutrements not usually served with bourbon and water…but handy nonetheless. Perfect!!

The hot sausage sandwich was absolutely out of this world accompanied by Idora home cut french fries and this waiter’s terrific personality. Be warned, it is a patty not a link…and just hot enough to be annoyingly delicious!!! And here is the test….don’t laugh. It didn’t make me sick, and I don’t mean that to be a pejorative statement. I love onions and peppers, but they don’t like me if not fresh, so I rarely order something like this out. Not here. I would go back for one of those in a Chinese minute. Everything was fresh, fresh, fresh, and you could actually taste the sweetness of the onions.

When we were done eating, the owner came over to chat about the food and the Kentucky Derby. Another great guy. He has true pride in his business, and bragged about the things he personally makes back in the kitchen. This is old school Youngstown at its best. He told us that Fridays are a big deal at Molly’s with numerous different offerings of excellently prepared fish. My son told us the same thing. So I am going to wait until I get down there on a Friday before giving Molly’s a meatball rating.

But I strongly recommend Molly’s for its friendly uber casual shot and a beer old steel town atmosphere, and some really good, good food that will help you keep this economy at bay!!! Two big thumbs up!!!!

Molly's Restaurant
1309 Salt Springs Road
Youngstown, OH 44509
Phone 330-799-0038

Rip's Cafe - The Hunky Platter - Struthers

2011-05-04T04:26:00.000-07:00

Oh my goodness. Find your Bubba, get some slivovitz ,and head on down to Rip’s Café in Struthers for a heaping plate of old fashioned eastern European cooking. Rip’s café has been in Struthers probably since Mr. Struthers founded Struthers, or at least since 1933. This is the quintessential family run neighborhood bar which specializes in food offerings your grandma used to make.

In fact, people wanted to sample all of the eastern European cooking, so the owners put together an assortment of stuffed cabbage, halushki, and pierogies, and called it the Hunky Platter…yours for $7.50…only in Youngstown.

And that is one of the reasons I love living in Youngstown. This place is a gem of a dying genre. Currently run by two sisters, one cooks and the other works the bar and front, you can get good food and lots of friendly discussion from the owners of this wonderfully simple, and simply wonderful establishment.

It doesn't look like much from the road. Park in the front, go in through the door. If it is hot and the air conditioning isn’t on, don’t be surprised to see the front door wide open. It is a narrow place. The very long bar with 1950’s orange/red modern bar stools is on the left, and a row of booths under a wall mural is on the right. The owners pride themselves in their seasonal decorations. Go now, and you will find God Bless America decorations.

The menu is filled with sandwiches, and of course a wide selection of eastern European food. EVERYTHING but one or two items on the menu is homemade, and they will happily tell you what those items are. Don’t expect to order a hamburger. They only have hamburgers on Saturday for $3.75, which are handmade just like Mom’s, really!! No french fries, thank you very much. You get chips and a pickle and you can order yourself up some sweet cole slaw. One order will serve two easily.

But the highlight is the Hunky Platter. Now I am not a big fan of central and eastern European cuisine. But this isn’t cuisine, this is Bubba Repasky’s home cooking recipes. The pig in the blanket is huge…the pierogies are buttery with or without onions. The Halushki is something to die for. The Halushki I am used to is basically cabbage and noodles. This is different. Everything is all chopped and blended together. Outstanding!!

And they are so friendly. My wife and I loved swapping stories with the owner whose got a lot of them…and these stories cross all ethnic cultural backgrounds. I hope they are never lost.

They have a DVD made by Bubba Repasky showing you how to cook the Ukrainian way. My wife teaches Home Ec and she bought one ($20.00) for her classes. It is a hoot. Food Network has nothing on these folks.

I really like this place. You get simple food from friendly folks at reasonable prices with a few stories thrown in at no charge. What the hell else do you want out of life?

An easy four meatballs for being a neighborhood tavern winner.

Rip's Cafe

614 Youngstown Poland Rd

Struthers, OH 44471

330-755-0057

Longhorn Steakhouse - Boardman

2011-04-29T13:02:00.000-07:00

Okay! Okay! I know it is a chain. I don’t usually review chains. But the fact of the matter is I eat here at least twice per month, and I really like the place. So here goes.

There are all levels of steakhouses. I am a carnivore in the worst degree so I visit a lot of them. At the high end you got your Morton’s of Chicago, Ruth’s Chris, Fleming’s, and Hyde Park Grille, plus numerous independents like the Diamond Grille and Ken Stewarts in Akron. All of these involve going to the bank and mortgaging your house. All good. All expensive. And the Diamond Grille in Akron doesn’t take credit cards!!! What’s a body to do?

Starting at the other end, you get some places like the Golden Corral. Move up a bit you get the Texas Roadhouse chain. Then you come to Outback. The food gets better as you move up the chain. For awhile there was Lone Star…with its very loud and abrasive Texas yahoo theme. Place was always packed on the weekends. Couldn’t cook a well done burger and I got lots of free lunches as a result. And the Brown Derby’s of the world are now long extinct, leaving us in themed restaurant heaven.

Longhorn is one of those themed restaurants. But here’s the thing. The restaurant underwent some renovations about six months ago, and what came out the other end was actually one of the most attractive restaurant spaces in the area. Yes, it still is western themed, but it blends into these shades of gold, brown and tan with an effect that you know the painting of horses are on the walls, but what you see is calming, soothing and very, very pretty. The bar area is spectacularly gleaming. Whoever did their interior design earned their money ten times over.

In addition, they turned down the music (still country but background…not blasting) and upgraded the food. Previously, I had some really bad steaks…no more. They are good, tender, and always seem to be perfectly prepared. They know what they are doing. In addition, they have some spectacular appetizers that aren’t as kitschy as let’s say a Chili’s might be. They are creative and good.

Given that I eat steak, preferably sirloin because I like the flavor, it’s hard to say much more than they are good, tender, and cooked the way I like order them. But the additions of upgraded fish and appetizer offerings are appealing. The salmon is always very good. Service is usally more than adequate. And their bread and butter is wonderful...a sweet whole grain bread you can't stop eating once you start. I mostly have lunch there, but I am watching them build their menus and specials…and as the saying goes… the are in it to win it.

Price point is a little above Outback (and you can see it in the quality), but certainly below the top of the line expense account steakhouses. Portions are controlled, but more than ample. I would rather have a smaller steak that is superb than one hanging off the plate that is gristly and inedible. Quality and preparation count here. These folks are making an effort, and a meat eater like me appreciates the effort.

For a chain, I give it 4 meatballs. Give it a try! The atmosphere will make you want to linger over cocktails.

LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE
953 BOARDMAN-POLAND ROAD

BOARDMAN, OH 44512
Phone: 330-729-9730
Fax: 330-729-9731

Antone's Italian Grille and Bar

2011-04-13T20:48:00.000-07:00

I have been writing Youngstown Eats for over two years now, and I have never reviewed a Youngstown institution…the one and only…the watch ‘em cook on WFMJ every Monday morning…here a restaurant there a restaurant…get yourself a monkey salad…ANTONE’s.

Antone’s Restaurant and Confetti Lounge was the quintessential Youngstown restaurant when it was located on Market Street. It was one of the Market Street corridor’s see and be seen places during the 60’s and 70’s. It was the Scianna family that over the years created, developed and perfected what many of us now refer to as Youngstown food. Just about every other Italian restaurant in the area owes a debt to Antone’s for pointing the way. I can give you the names of many people who refused to leave here, or moved back here, because they miss Youngstown food!!!

It was the first to bring us fried cheese, the Antone’s salad (and its smaller cousin the monkey salad), veal francaise…the list goes on and on. It was probably the first spaghetti sauce that was deemed acceptable to eat out by my family. It was quite a place.

When it burned down, many of us felt a sense of loss. By then, the operation of the restaurant had been taken over by Ross Scianna, the son of the founder. Ross is nothing if he is not a promoter, and he modernized the operation by opening up smaller more casual restaurants called Antone’s II out in the suburbs. Ross kept the more popular restaurant favorites, and added a whole bunch of oversized sandwiches named after members of his family and various popular figures in the Youngstown area. The sausage pepper and onion sandwich took a Canfield Fair mainstay and put it on steroids.

That seems to be the theme for the doggedly uneven development of the Antone’s Restaurant Group over the years. If some is good…more is better…ALL THE TIME!!! Make it bigger, and they will come!! Not always.

And Lord knows they tried...and maybe spread themselves too thin. While operating the Antone’s II restaurants, now known as Antone’s Italian Grill, the Scianna’s opened and closed Oscar’s, a white table cloth restaurant in Boardman…replaced, opened and recently closed sports bar entry called Jeremiah Bullfrog’s. In the process, it developed a fast food version of Antone’s called That’s Italian which they are currently franchising. One recently opened in Worthington in Columbus. Like I said, Ross and his son Chad are nothing if they are not promoters. You really should watch them cook on the local early morning shows. What a hoot!

Today, there are three Antone’s restaurants in the area, plus an Antone’s Express in Warren and an Antone’s That’s Italian in Boardman. There is also the Antone’s Banquet Center, one of the premier banquet facilities in the Mahoning Valley. These guys know how to cook for lots of people.

Here is the skinny. Antone’s still offers the best Italian food in the area. Its sauce is great. The portions are substantial. The food is hearty…not for the timid. The wedding soup is terrific. The Antone’s salad is a mainstay at many holiday meals. The meatballs are great. The sandwiches are huge. This is Youngstown food at it’s supposed to be…what people stay home and move back here for.

We patronize the restaurant located on Route 224 near West Boulevard. It has been there a long time. The exterior looks a little shabby, but the interior is rustic…both by design and age!!!! The service is friendly, and it is a very attractive space. Prices are more than fair…there isn’t item on the menu that I have seen that goes much over $12.00, and that’s for a steak. I don’t know how they do it at these prices.

My advice to these folks is to stick with what works, and do it better than anybody else. I don’t think anyone in the restaurant business can go ten different directions and be successful at them all. But the basic Antone’s operation is so good, it has been able to withstand with flying colors all of the other business ventures of its colorful, true Youngstown originals, owners.

I like Antone’s a lot. At the end of the day, it’s the food that makes a place. And the wonderful Scianna family uber succeeds in its basic restaurant operation even if some of the other stuff has been dicey, at best. GUYS…PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT IS WORKING.

Antone’s Italian Grille and Bar gets a well deserved four meatballs.

Antone's Italian Grille & Bar

720 Boardman-Canfield Rd.

Boardman, OH 44512

Ph: 330-965-0333

Mark's Landing - Guilford Lake/Lisbon

2011-04-02T17:45:00.000-07:00

Okay…so it’s light now until 8:00, and I am getting the urge to waste some $3.89/gal. premium gas. (Yes, my car takes premium…you gotta problem wit dat?) It was 5:00 on Saturday afternoon, too late for reservation type places. My wife and I had on our grubbies and didn’t want to get dressed up anyway. And we wanted to take a nice ride, but not to far.

I had heard of a place in Lisbon that was supposed to be pretty good, but I forgot the name. While trying to find it on Google, however, I came across a place called Mark’s Landing…a Guilford Lake landmark for many years, about 8 miles on the other side of Lisbon. I haven’t been to Guilford Lake in years, so we got in my new, old car (story to follow) and headed on down Route 11.

Mark’s Landing is an easy 40 minute ride from here. It is right on Guilford Lake. The property has been through several owners, the latest being the Ieropoli family (Greek or Italian??) who over the past several years has done some major improvements to the place, including a new kitchen, and patio, and renovation of cabin that you can rent during the summer.

Mark’s Landing looks like something you would find in Geneva on the Lake. It is a summer resort, get me an umbrella drink kind of place which I bet is jumping on a hot night in July. It is deceivingly small, with a updated bar with a couple of booths, a small dining room area, and a second level that looks like it is set up for larger groups or private parties. The them is nautical, of course, and it is like stepping back in time.

The menu is ambitious given the type of place it appears to be. The obligatory burgers and wings are available, but so is Jack Daniels glazes salmon, numerous steaks at reasonable prices, Cajun shrimp, gourmet type pasta dishes, and the usual chicken marsala and chicken picatta type of dishes.

One of it’s specialties is the Big Fish Sandwich. That’s what I had. My wife ordered the Big Italian. I thought she already had one…but she wanted peppers and onion with it. Both of these were very good. The sandwiches are HUGE served with Idora style fries. You could feed two people from the fish, which has only a touch of very light and airy breading. I was impressed.

Sandwiches are in the $8.00 range, and worth every penny. Full meals go for up to $20.00. Drinks and wine are more than reasonably priced.

The service was friendly. The atmosphere is “summer lake” laid back. It is an interesting place to go if you are looking for a short jaunt to get away to a different kind of place…and believe me…Guilford Lake is a different kind of place.

Again, because I don’t like to give meatballs to places I have only been once, I am going to refrain from it tonight…but give it two thumbs up for now, and three if it were summer time!!!

Marks Landing Restaurant
33220 Charlton Street
Lisbon, Ohio 44423
330-222-9507

Steamers - North Lima

2011-03-19T06:34:00.000-07:00

As I have explored Southside food over the past year, I can now name the Market Street Extension (how dated is that) triumvirate: Café Capri, Johnny’s, and Steamers. All of these guys are great giving a different spin to somewhat the same type of food. I think I have to finally give it a name because you really don’t see it to such a great extent in other parts of the state or the country, for that matter. Let’s call it Youngstown Italian Tavern Food.

Steamers is in a North Lima building that has a history for those of us who have lived here all of our lives. The original building was the restaurant portion of a high end fifties modern Holiday Inn. My father used to drive out there to make reservations when we made our weekend trips when I was a kid. Occasionally he would take the family there for Sunday dinner. It was a pretty space back then. When the Holiday Inn sold the facility, the restaurant and the motel operations were separated out. The restaurant was Smaldino’s for years. When my son was small, he called it Little Dino’s because he couldn’t remember the name but understood puns. Terminally cute!!!!

When it became Steamers, the restaurant got a major upgrade. I am not familiar with the owners, but they did a bang up job on the place. I have only been to Steamers once before, and that was few years ago. My car wants to go another direction than towards North Lima when looking for a place to eat. It is on the outer limits of the area restaurant perimeter!! Maybe it’s time to permanently punch it into the Garmin!

There are a lot of good things to say about Steamers. It is friendly. It is convivial. I called the day before my visit for reservations and was told that they do the call ahead sitting thing, but he said he would put my name down for the next day rather than making me call back like some places do. Super nice on the phone! The “ta-da” girls who man the hostess station were actually friendly, welcoming and accommodating, a big plus for me! So many places they are not. The bartenders are friendly. They pour a good drink. The atmosphere is fun. The space, especially the bar area, is extremely attractive. AND we probably had the best waitress in years who would do anything for us. She paced the meal well and didn’t give us the bums rush to turn the table over. Efficient, friendly, even cracked a few jokes with us…when you get a good waitress, you know it!! Prices are certainly comparable to anywhere else. Great portions. What’s not to like?

Steamers takes Youngstown Italian Tavern food and gives it a twist with an emphasis on fish. I assume it takes its name from the steam stations at the bar wherein various shellfish are steamed for serving in front of the patrons. It was kind of neat to watch. The menu has an entire section for its steam bar appetizers. There also many fish items on the menu.

Steamers has a wonderful menu offering a wide variety of choices from the steam bar selections to fish to steaks and chops to the usual Italian selections you find locally. Here is the thing. My dinner was very good…but I have had what I ordered better at other places. Therein lays the problem selling that type of Italian food in Youngstown…the competition is fierce. That being said, my wife said here dinner was terrific, but she had fish!! Plus the place was packed with families and friends having a great time enjoying good food. And it is always busy so they must be doing something right.

Here is the grossly unfair result. Everything else about Steamers is so outstanding…a very good Italian dinner isn’t good enough when you are expecting “wow”. So here is what I am going to do. Steamers is at the top of the list of places to visit again, and soon! I don’t give meatball ratings on the basis of one visit so I will reserve the score until I go there again. Next time, I am going to try something else that may give me that “wow” factor, and I am more than sure I will find it because these folks try hard.

In the meantime, put this on your “must do” restaurant and bar hopping list. I don’t think you will be disappointed.

Steamers
10078 Market Street

North Lima, Ohio 44452
330.549.9041

The Twentieth Century and Youngstown Eats Nostalgia

2011-03-03T21:10:00.000-08:00

Several weeks ago I got a call from a guy in California. He told me he was Youngstown State grad, and was planning a reunion in Las Vegas for his YSU Zeta Beta Tau fraternity and those brothers who attended Youngstown University in the mid 1960’s. On the website he posted to help promote the event, he had a page for pictures of Youngstown memorabilia from that interesting era.

While looking for pictures, he came across my Youngstown Eats blog, and asked if I could help locate pictures of the Twentieth Century Restaurant that used to be at the point on Belmont Avenue. Now for those of you who don’t know, the northside of Youngstown had a large Jewish population at the time, and the Twentieth Century Restaurant was about as close to a New York deli as you might find in the area. And the ZBT’s were the Jewish fraternity on campus…so everything was wrapped up in a nice package. Coincidentally, my cousin was a member of ZBT when he went to Youngstown and turned out to be good friends with Howard, the guy from California. No, I am not Jewish. My cousin was Catholic and ZBT's token Gentile!!

Through some effort and some information given to me by my good friend Suzyn, I was able to point him in the direction of the family of the original owners who now live in Columbus. The pictures arrived in California last week, along with some of the restaurant recipes.

Over the course of the search, I got to know Howard over the phone. We spent many conversations reminiscing about old Youngstown restaurants. It was fun to do the Memory Lane thing, and revisit some of then in my mind. It also served to remind me of many of the events, good and bad, that shaped the Youngstown area.

There were very few, if any chains, back in the day. My earliest experiences in dining out took place at the Hotel Pick Ohio in the Crystal Dining Room. It was worthy of New York with its stiff white table cloths and crystal chandeliers off the lobby of the hotel, dominated by a massive mural, which was beautiful in and of itself. Now part of the Youngstown Housing Authority the lobby mural is still there.

Other downtown establishments included the Mural Room. You walked in the door and down some steps into a fantastic space. My senior prom was held there, as well as a number of college events when I was attending YSU. Both Strouss and McKelvey’s had terrific department store restaurants. Strouss had the Western Reserve Room, where I had lunch many times up until it stopped being Strouss and became something else. The Strouss Grill on the first floor behind the bakery (large pecan rolls and those little marmalade sticky rolls) was also a great place for lunch. Great chicken croquettes and the best hamburgers I ever had. How about Lum’s in the old bus arcade! We used to walk down there from the university for a hot dog. Honorable mention goes to The Italian Restaurant (the 75 year old waitress could carry 12 plate of food and kick the revolving door with her foot) and the Hasti House with wonderful pies.

Going south on Market Street you hit the uptown restaurants. The most famous was the original Antone’s and its Confetti Lounge. This is where I took a girl to impress her with such exotic dishes as fried cheese and veal francaise, and of course the famous Antone’s salad. Further south was Cicero’s. I never ate there, but it was swank and a mob hangout. It was also the site of several car bombings. You could lose count of how many people died there. Across the street was the Mansion. It was done in red leather and black velvet. They don’t make them like that anymore. And across from that was the Colonial House…where the elite met. It was THE hangout, with regular patrons getting their regular tables. You had drive through a very narrow carport to get to the parking lot in the rear. I think I scrapped the side of my folks car only once. The building is still there, empty and decaying.

Keep driving south on Market Street you would hit the Golden Drumstick and its fried chicken and biscuits and honey. It was the sister restaurant to the Twentieth Century done in that distinct architecture of the 1950’s. Even further south was Howard Johnson’s…HJ’s…where my high school friends and I hung out, and my folks would take us for Sunday dinner, clam boat and all. It was here that I first learned that steak with salt is better than steak without salt.

Two more southside restaurants figure prominently in the history of Youngstown food. Shot’s restaurant was located near Boardman Methodist Church. I used to meet my father and his friends there for lunch several times a week up until the place closed around 1980. And finally…Morgan’s Wonder Boy…the triple decker hamburger place with the twirling outside statue holding a burger and all of the drive up stalls to hang out on Friday night. It also served a new kind of chicken, something called Col. Sanders Kentucky Fried Chicken.

People who lived in Youngstown southern suburbs were holier than thou tucked away in their dry townships. So on the weekend they headed to the strip in Niles to let their hair down. The premier restaurant was the Living Room, which was actually a supper club with big name entertainment like you see on television. It had several levels, and was the place to go. I took dates their several times…and was so shook up by the wheelers and dealers patronizing the joint I really couldn’t have a good time.

Other strip names included Alberini’s, still there and still great…the Café 422, also there under different management and one of my most favorite places to go. Then there was Cherry’s Top of the Mall in the Eastwood Mall. I never went there, but lots of interesting people did. The El Rio was a favorite of my college friends with a HUGE menu. And down towards Warren was the Girves Brown Derby…one of the original steak houses in the area and part of an early restaurant chain. It was great. Loved to slurp the onion rings around in the steak juice!!

All of these places on the Niles/Warren 422 corridor were provided patrons by the Kenley Players in the summer located in the Packard Music Hall. Big names would come to the area for a new summer stock play every week for 12 weeks. I don’t know how John Kenley did it, but he did. Starting in Warren, he expanded to Akron and Columbus. He was a legend. Unfortunately, when he went belly up, so did a lot of the restaurants.

This leads me full circle to the Twentieth Century which was one of my most favorite Youngstown restaurants!! Here is where I learned to eat Reuben sandwiches and the famous and infamous Spinning Bowl salad where they would bring the ingredients right out to the table like making a Caesar Salad. They would make it right in front of you. That, with a couple of their sticky buns, was good for the evening…except you would have to save room for some of its chocolate pie. I never had another like it anywhere.

Talking to Howard all of these places seemed like such a long time ago. It wasn’t. Almost all were still up and running in the mid 1970’s, many still operating through the mid 1980’s when the mills finally shut down and chains took over. It was the double whammy for sole proprietor restaurateurs. And although this area still continues its long history of good eating…the nostalgia gets me sometimes, and I think about the Twentieth Century as I drive past the now vacant lot at the point on Belmont Avenue. Such is the passage of time.

Peppermint Thai Cuisine - Pepper Pike

2011-02-14T20:15:00.000-08:00

My wife and I spend a lot of time in Chagrin Falls, our favorite day trip destination. So with the days getting longer and the weather warming up just a tad, we decided to break loose from the winter chains and pay this lovely town a visit. Where to eat is always a question. Somehow we always end up at the same old places. Then I remembered a friend of mine recommended a Thai restaurant located in Pepper Pike…just up the road (Chagrin Blvd.) a piece from Chagrin Falls. And that worked out just fine, being Valentine’s Day and everything, because the places that take reservations were booked, booked and booked!!

Like all Southeast Asian cuisine, it is not your standard Chinese fare. It is different, with different spices and different textures. It tends to be lighter and more delicate than Chinese, and substantially more spicy than Vietnamese. The cuisine has distinct regional characteristics: curries with coconut milk and turmeric from the south, and dishes with citrus overtones from the north. Its noodle and rice dishes often have some sort of fruit as an ingredient. And “heat” tends to pop up in the least expected places. It is complex cuisine, and one that is worth exploring.

Peppermint Thai is a good place to start. Located in a plaza midway between Chagrin Falls and Corky and Lenny’s just off of the Woodmere roundabout, it is convenient to anyone doing shopping in Chagrin Falls, or as far away as Beachwood Mall and Legacy Village. It is a popular place, taking reservations for parties of three or more. Last Saturday night the place was packed. But we were seated with little waiting time at 6:00. Had we come a half hour later…that would have been another story.

It is a very attractive restaurant, well decorated. The service is adept and friendly. You are not rushed. It offers full bar service with a list of specialized drinks. The Thai Sangria is terrific. If you aren’t familiar with the cuisine, the staff is knowledgeable and can steer you in the right direction. I can tell you up front, you probably won’t like everything you try…but then again, there is plenty of other things to like.

The first thing you will notice are the curry dishes, offered in several different styles. My wife and I are not curry fans so we passed…although the table next to us ordered several different styles and they looked wonderful. Next time we will give them a try.

We started with a very safe chicken satay served with a peanut sauce and a cucumber sauce. We also ordered some vegetable tempura served with a seriously delicate sweet and sour sauce. Both appetizers were very, very good.

Just for the hell of it, I ordered a bowl of soup called Tam Kar Gai. It was a chicken based soup done in coconut milk and seasoned with lime and something else…I know not what!! I didn’t like it. But half the fun of going to a place like this to try some different things.

For my main course, I ordered something called the Crying Tiger, which was marinated skirt steak (one of my favorites cuts of meat) with Thai seasonings grilled over a hot flame. It was outstanding. It was served with a Thai salad of various Thai salad stuff…I know not what…and sticky rice. The salad was terrific…and HOT!!! Like I said, the heat pops up in unexpected places. It was also served with Jasmine sticky rice. This is a rice native to Thailand and has a distinct flavor and aroma. It’s not that it was bad, but it wasn’t my American palate was expecting when eating rice. Then again, if you want Uncle Ben’s…stay at home!!!!

It was fun to read the through the dish descriptions. One of the things you will notice is the use of fruit in their rice and noodle dishes, especially fruits like Mango…which appears pretty much every where on the menu. If you decide to go, visit their website on line and look at the menu beforehand because it is time consuming to read all of the provided information.

I played it safe with my dinner choices. So did my wife who ordered the equivalent of a lo mein Chinese dish…which was also very good. But part of the fun in going to new places is to be adventuresome, and next time we visit Peppermint Thai, we will. I also recommend if you go, go with another couple so you can share several of these wonderfully prepared dishes.

I am not going to give Peppermint Thai any meatballs because I usually like to visit a place more than once before making my decision. That being said…this is a fun and interesting place. Let's settle for two thumbs up. Next time you are up in the area, give it a try.

Peppermint Thai Cuisine
30769 PineTree Rd.
Pepper Pike, OH 44124
Phone: (216) 464-5432

Station Square - Liberty

2011-02-10T19:20:00.001-08:00

Everyone should head to Station Square. No, not the Pittsburgh Station Square, although that’s not too bad of an idea, but to the one in Liberty on Belmont Avenue. Station Square has been a mainstay of the Liberty restaurant scene since 1986. The truth of the matter is that I am basically turned off by restaurants that are attached to budget motels, and Station Square is one of those.

But Mark has learned some tough lessons. Hyde Park Grille in Beachwood is attached to an “interesting” motel, and it is one of the top steakhouses in northeast Ohio. Fortune Garden is one of my favorite Chinese restaurants, and located outside of the shell of the Tally Ho Motel. When will I ever learn?

A friend of mine introduced me to Station Square after an event a month or so ago when we stopped by there for an after formal dance drink. Since then, I have been back there twice, and I really like this place. The menu is great. The food is very good. The atmosphere is inviting and comfortable…almost old school. I am glad I finally wised up to a great place.

One of the first things I like about the place is that it takes reservations. Word to wise, make them on the weekends. We didn’t both times my wife and I went there to eat, so we ate at the bar…which is where we normally end up eating in most places we go to. So I can’t tell you about dining in the dining room. But this is a great bar. It is convivial. The bartenders are friendly and know what they are doing. And you get pretty good mix of people drinking and eating. We have met some nice people hanging out while eating dinner. And what is really neat, at least for me, the crowd is not the twenty somethings. The folks frequenting here are adults...in an adult environment. Very comfortable for those over 40.

The food here is good. Let’s start with my only criticism. I got this thing about boring salads. It comes with the meal, but lettuce on a plate with a tomato just doesn’t cut it for me. Dressing up the house salad can give a place class, and it doesn’t take much to do.

But the rest of the meals were terrific. The menu is just extensive enough, with a healthy dose of the usual Youngstown Italian fare. But it also offers a wide choice of steaks and chops, veal, fish and chicken. Appetizers range from stuffed shrimp to stuffed mushrooms (shades of the 70’s) to prosciutto and parmesan cheese. At the other end of the meal are some interesting desserts including something called Apples Foster, a twist on the traditional Bananas Foster, which was different and worth a taste!!! It was addicting.

In between appetizers and dessert, for the main course I have sampled the Veal Francaise and the Veal Parm. Both were terrific. The Francaise was the more interesting of the two, similar to what we are used to in the area, but prepared a tad different from what we are used to in this area moving it from ho hum to wow!! My wife is partial to their stir fries, which make for extremely tasty lighter choices. These are also addicting…so don’t sample!!!!

I am a sucker for local restaurants. These folks try hard under very difficult circumstances. I wouldn’t want to do what they do, and I salute those who are successful. Obviously Station Square is one of those places that has stood the “taste” of time, and I am glad I found it…better late than never!!! And never mind that motel that is behind these great places!!

This is an easy 4 meatballs.

Station Square
4250 Belmont Ave.

Liberty, Ohio

(330) 759 – 8802

Zenobia: Canfield's Mideast Gem

2011-01-28T19:07:00.000-08:00

It is purely coincidental that I am reviewing a Mideast restaurant this week midst the turmoil in Egypt. But nothing stops the pursuit of culinary excellence. Not even revolutions. While they may be marching in the streets of Cairo, right here in Canfield is a gem of a place called Zenobia. Who knew you could find such boffo Mideast food in the Hilltop Plaza at Route 224 at Talsman Drive? BTW, it is named after an Egyptian Queen who beheaded a few people in her time, and then became a social butterfly in ancient Rome. Way to go Queen Zenobia!!!!

Let me start by saying that I am not a fan of Mideast cuisine. I like it. It doesn’t like me. And if the recipe starts with “take three cloves of garlic”, I am in big trouble. So when I saw that Renee’s was out of this spot and a Mideast place was in, I yawned. No way in hell will this place make it! I was SOOOOOOO wrong. Zenobia is a hit.

The set up is like the old Renee’s with a Mideast décor taking the place of the French bistro stuff. But you don’t order at the counter. This is a sit-down establishment. When you walk through the door, look to the right in front of the case and you can ponder some of the authentic Mideast pastries. The first time I was there, it was brimming. The second time, not so much. The first time was better!!! But all are good.

There are some tables in the front room, more tables in the back. The décor actually works. I don’t know how the pulled it off, but they did. My only criticism is the make-shift office in the hallway off to the right. A little tacky, but then again, there is no place else to put it!!!

Let’s get to the parsley in the tabouli. The food here is terrific. I can’t describe a lot of the dishes because they are new to me. Both visits I stuck to more simple things, my favorite being the grilled lamb platter, served with peppers, onions and mushrooms and wonderful rice. Garlic sauce, tabouli salad, and hot peppers are served in small side dishes. It was good, plain and simple!!! I am going back for more. My wife stuck with gyros, also a home run. For dessert, baklava for me, rice pudding for her. The rice pudding is different. It is almost like a sweet, cold soup. At first I thought yuck…then I tasted it. Very, very good!

Zenobia has a full menu ranging from appetizers to full dinners. I don’t know what was on those dishes coming out of the kitchen, but it all looked wonderful.

The atmosphere is family chic with wifi. Both times we visited the place was packed. This past Thursday night the folks were lined up for tables. People sat around sharing pictures, reading books, working on computers while literally stuffing their faces with this wonderful cuisine.

This is a family run place, with friendly, smiling service. The ladies are extremely helpful in helping you choose from an unfamiliar menu, and genuinely care if you are enjoying your meal. It also offers a selection of mideast beers and wines.

The hot spiced tea is addicting.

Somehow Zenobia fits right into Canfield, and I hope that it will be with us a long time. Baba Ghannouj anyone?

Four Lebanese Meatballs.

Zenobia
584 East Main Street
Ste 10
Canfield, OH 44406
330-286-0800

Texas Roadhouse - Alliance

2011-01-22T05:56:00.000-08:00

Yippee-i-o-ki-yea! Get your horse and lasso your sweet gal Sal and mosey on down the trail called Route 62 to Alliance and the Texas Roadhouse for some steaks and “Q”! Well, at least that’s what I did last night…the coldest night of the year…drifted over roads…am I nuts or what?

I had heard about this place so we thought we would give it a go. First I had to figure out how to get to Alliance…a 30 mile drive down Route 62 will do it. It turns into a very busy road filled with red lights on the north side of Alliance as you drive past Mount Union College. At any rate, it is an easy drive taking about 40 minutes from Canfield. Whether you want to drive it or not is another story.

I looked the Texas Roadhouse up on the internet before I gassed up the Buick. It is a national chain with numerous locations in Ohio. I had some knowledge of it…but that was it. We obviously have steak places around here, with Longhorn and Outback being the most obvious. We lost the Lonestar next to the Poland Inner Circle a year or so ago.

What struck me about this place was the pricing. It seemed low. Most steak places these days start their pricing at $18.00 plus with many in the mid $20.00 range. Texas Roadhouse pricing started a few dollars less. My steak and rib combo dinner last night cost $16.00. So I was a tad skeptical as to the quality of the meals being served here. I couldn’t figure out how they could do it. After I got there, I knew.

This place is HUGE. The parking lot was jammed with cars and we thought we would be in line for an hour. We waited about 5 minutes at 6:00 on a Friday night. As you walk in the door, ladies are behind a glass window baking their homemade dinner rolls which you can make a meal from alone. They are outstanding I love good carbohydrates!! Next to them is a case showcasing the meat, which is plentiful!! Lots of meat!! The hostess calls your number. The waitress who will be serving you grabs a basket of rolls and leads you to your table, all the while telling you how great the rolls are with the served cinnamon butter…and she is right about that!

Here is the good stuff. The food here is very good. Steaks are above average quality. They know how to cook the steaks so beware. Medium and medium rare means just that. Don’t under order thinking the griller will turn medium into well done. The accompaniments are terrific. Loaded sweet potatoes are sinful. The Caesar salad is cold and crisp with lots of cheese and croutons. We had a brownie dessert which was enough for three and will solve my chocolate craving until March. All are reasonably priced. You can’t complain.

Or maybe you can. This place makes its money in volume…and I mean lots of volume. They moooo-ve you in and moooo-ve you out. (How’d you like that? I thought about that line all the way home!) This place raises moving tables to an art form. From the minute you sit down, they press you to order quickly, and get the hell out. We didn’t even have our coats off, and the waitress started on drink orders, and was insistent. Before we even opened the menus she demanded to know what appetizers we wanted. We ordered drinks, and she immediately wanted the main course order…and the food came out pronto!!! She dumped the check on us before we could order dessert and coffee. I finally had to tell her we wanted coffee and dessert, and to slow down because we weren’t leaving until we were done. We were there less than an hour, and I am not making this up, the tables next to us and behind us turned over twice. These poor kids sat down, ordered a burger, and were out in less than 30 minutes.

The noise level is off the charts. Like I said, it is huge. I walked to the back of the restaurant to use the “outhouse” and it looked like a Fellini movie, pretty much all elevated booths jammed with people. Ours was by the bar so there was a degree of privacy, but in the main space…Oh My!!! All the while, there was the obligatory country music playing over the speaker system; but it was continually interrupted by the hostess shouting “Now seating ticket number 29!!” I kept waiting for her to say “Your fish is ready.”

By the time we left, what would have otherwise been a pretty good meal was sitting in our stomachs and we had indigestion for the rest of night. But…we were out of there at $44.00.

If I ever go back to the Texas Roadhouse, I might try it on a weeknight, or in the middle of the afternoon when the pressure to turn tables over would be less compelling. I would avoid this place on Friday and Saturday nights. And you have be in the mood for the over top Texas motif, which can be a lot of fun if that is what you are looking for.

In the meantime, until I try it again, it gets a strong 4 meatballs for the food, but an overall 3 meatballs for the bum’s rush service. All that was missing was the Soup Nazi screaming no soup for you!

Texas Roadhouse
2033 West State Street NW
Alliance, OH 44601
Phone: 330-821-1755

Pho Saigon - Southeast Asia Comes to Boardman

2011-01-05T16:58:00.001-08:00

To quote my beloved Italian grandmother: “Colpo le candele. Il partito è finite.” Blow out the candles. The party is over. Such are the Christmas holidays. For the past four weeks, I ate too much. I drank too much. I partied too much. As the Christmas/New Years holidays go, this one was filled with house parties, venue parties, let’s go out for dinner parties, office parties…and in the midst of the revelry, I nary had an evening to try some new foodie place.

What to do? What to do? Then the soon to be outlawed incandescent light bulb went on in head. Why not review a place you go to once a week, that you thoroughly enjoy, and has the best Kung Pao in the city? That’s the trick…and Pho Saigon is the place.

For those of you not familiar with Vietnamese food, it’s a little different, and not what you would think. The end of the Vietnam War saw a mass migration of Vietnamese refugees fleeing to the United States. They ended up in some strange places. While the largest concentration of Vietnamese is in California, these hard working entrepreneurial immigrants landed in Minnesota, Virginia, Louisiana, Pennsylvania, Washington, Florida, and Rhode Island. And so did their customs and their food.

I was first introduced to Vietnamese cuisine as a place called Pho Bong’s at the intersection of New York’s Chinatown and Bowery. It looked like a dump on the outside, and frankly looked like a dump on the inside. But the food was wonderful, and cheap!! We ate there three of our five nights in NYC. I was happy to see that when we returned several years later, the place had actually morphed into a chain throughout the city. Such are the wonders of America.

At any rate, Vietnamese cuisine is in a space by itself. It is light, concentrating on fresh and simply prepared vegetables and fruits flavored with the likes of lemongrass, mint, and basil, and simply fried meat or fish. It is not Chinese. It is not Thai. I would almost describe it as good summer eating. Even the noodles are as light as feathers. It is delicate. It is light. It is wonderful. It takes a little getting used to when you are expecting a Hunan Palace, but end up with its slender, delicate cousin. The flavors and textures are distinct.

Pho is one of the mainstays of Vietnamese cuisine. In plain language, it is soup. Classic Pho is a chicken or beef broth lightly seasoned with pieces of chicken or meat along with noodles and spring vegetables served piping hot. In New York City, guests gathered around a communal table, each of us given individually heated bowls of broth, and we chose from several different meats placed in the center of the table, boiling each piece as we selected it. It made for a leisurely dinner, and great for making new friends at the table.

Most restaurants serving Pho do it as a complete bowl, and I mean a big bowl, of soup put in front of you. Now…there are all sorts of Vietnamese soup. And being Asian, they know not to waste any part of the animal. Sometimes there may be things in the soup you would prefer not to be in the soup. For that reason, any and all Vietnamese menus I have seen give more than an adequate description of what is in the soup. Many include pictures. But there is always something you would like…and when the snow is flying outside, a steaming bowl of Pho fits the bill.

Pho Saigon is a gem of a Vietnamese restaurant located on South Avenue in Boardman across from Sam’s Club, next to the Clarencedale Bakery. When I saw it was going into this little plaza, I thought it would be a bust. Then we started eating there, and I have watched a slow but steady increase in clientele as the past few years have gone by. I’m there for lunch at least once a week.

It is absolutely spotless, with sea foam green walls, blonde furniture and hardwood floors. The décor is relaxing. There are two big screen televisions softly running CNN (they should try Fox). The help is friendly. It’s clear this is a family run establishment, and they try hard. I have never had a bad meal here.

In addition to the numerous Vietnamese selections, it has a full Chinese food menu. And it is outstanding. As I stated at the beginning, it is the best Kung Pao chicken I have had anywhere. So that is what I get when I go there!!!! Even thought the Pho is outstanding also!!!!!

Prices are reasonable. A huge bowl of Pho will run between 6 – 7 bucks. The Kung Pao is $8.95 for dinner and $5.75 for lunch, and you get a lot of food. You get a choice between steamed or fried rice.

I will be honest. The freshness of the seasoning of Vietnamese cuisine can be a bit disconcerting. Much of it I like…some of it I don’t. My palate is used to the much heavier Chinese and Thai cooking. Either way, at Pho Saigon, you will be winner.

I am a big supporter of locally owned restaurants. This one is worth a look. You will be pleasantly surprised.

My rating: 3 ½ meatballs 1/2

Pho Saigon
6532 South Avenue
Youngstown, OH 44512
330-729-9588

Christmas Redux: Alberini's/Stonebridge Tavern/Springfield Grill

2010-12-18T00:39:00.000-08:00

It’s Christmastime, and time to party hardy. I highly recommend it to everyone! But it has a crimped our style a bit. Rather than try new places to overeat and drink and fa la la around a bit, my wife and I and our friends have opted for a Christmas comfort zone and visited some of our favorite eateries. So here is my Christmas list of visited establishments, and an update as to what’s happening now on the Christmas restaurant list.

1) Alberini’s (Niles) - We haven’t been here for over a year, and I am happy to report that it has actually improved. Alberini’s has been a long time Youngstown/Warren favorite, and is one of two old line “strip” restaurants on the Route 422 corridor in Niles. For those of you under 40, back in the day, Boardman and Canfield were dry, and locals drove to the Niles strip to have a good time. I am writing a column on restaurant nostalgia which will pop up in the next few weeks. At any rate, Alberini’s and Café 422 are the only survivors of that fabulous era. The food here has always been good. Service has been another story. But I am thrilled to report that the food is still outstanding and still reasonably priced. I am also thrilled to report that the service was greatly improved. This restaurant is still one of the prettiest restaurants in the area…and a delight to visit. Veal Saltimboca is to die for! You really can’t tell where the veal ends and the eggplant begins. FABULOUS!!!!

2) Stonebridge Grille and Tavern (Boardman) – Bobby Stevens has a winner on his hands with this place. It is rapidly becoming one of my most favorite places to go. Prices are unbelievably reasonable, and you can’t beat the food. The sirloin steak is among the best steaks I have ever had anywhere. It almost cuts like a filet. I talked to one of the partners, and he told me Stonebridge is the one of the few restaurants in the area to serve certified black angus beef, and that the sirloin steaks are taken only from the center of the entire sirloin. Perfectly done every time. And for under 15 bucks, and with yummy Stonebridge potatoes…wow!! Burgers are terrific also. Place is busy, and it deserves to be. You really need to give it a try.

3) Springfield Grill (Boardman) – I really want to like this place, and for the most part I do. But when it gets busy, try some place else. When my 97 year old uncle comes to town with my late cousin’s husband, this is where he likes to go. We are usually there on a Wednesday or Thursday night, and the restaurant is a terrific in every way. Great food and great service! But at Christmas, when it gets really busy on the weekends, run for the hills! We took my aunt out for dinner last night, and the place was so packed it was almost frightening. The ta-da girls at the hostess station were overwhelmed and curt and non-welcoming to say the least. Leaving, we could barely walk through the foyer to get to the door. The service was painfully slow. We were seated for almost twenty minutes before a drink order was taken. Our server had tables at diverse ends of the dining room, which had to be a tad taxing. Maybe someone called in sick, but I had indigestion by the time I left. Unfortunately, this has been my experience here on more than one occasion during a busy season. So go for lunch, or go for dinner during the week, and you will have a great time. But I would avoid it during a seasonal or weekend rush. BTW, my wife and I both had the marinated flank steak which was on the specials list. It was okay. I prepare it better!!! But I can report that for the most part, the regular menu items are always outstanding.

I will be out of commission for the next two weeks, celebrating with my family and friends. Go patronize a locally owned restaurant. You will have a good time and a great meal. Have a Merry Christmas…and good eating!!!!!

Quaker Steak and Lube - Sharon, PA. / The Lube is Back

2010-11-28T19:45:00.000-08:00

On the banks of the Shenango River in beautiful downtown Sharon, Pa. you will find the ever famous and infamous Quaker Steak and Lube. Starting out in 1974 in a converted garage with the goal of preserving the golden age of American muscle cars, it has since expanded into a major franchise operation with restaurants all through the United States. But the original “Lube” is little changed over the past 36 years.

When we moved back to the area in 1975, it was THE hot spot to frequent. In addition to the wings, ribs and burger operation in the converted garage, the owners ran two other restaurants surrounding the common parking lot, one of them heavy on the seafood offerings. Sunday and holiday buffets became the norm, and I spent numerous New Years Eves driving to and from Sharon to celebrate with my friends. It was a different time and place, and a lot of fun.

The Lube operation now concentrates on its bread and butter items…wings, ribs, burgers, onion rings and all sorts of sauce accompaniments. It is cholesterol heaven. Don’t be surprised if the food police raids the joint during your dinner. Get those hot wings with a Lipitor chaser!!! And if you go for lunch, you have a lunch buffet offering burgers and hot dogs, wings, and selected other items for those who are in a rush or simply want to chow down.

Here’s the skinny. For years, the Lube had the best wings in town. Then I don’t know what happened. The wings got skimpy. If they put a sauce on them, you couldn’t tell. The steaks were tough. The ribs were all bone. I noticed it a little bit in Sharon. I noticed it a lot in the Austintown operation. I tried once, twice, and three strikes you’re out. I stopped going there, and gave the Austintown restaurant a bum review.

Then a friend of mine suggested we meet at the Austintown restaurant for some conversation, and I decided to go. I ordered some wings…and wow…they were pretty good; much, much improved. Then I had the occasion to be in Sharon on business with my son (OK, we were going to Kraynaks for Christmas lights), and we stopped in the Sharon restaurant for lunch…and wow again…the food was much improved. What happened?

I don’t know, but the wings were big and plump; the sandwiches bountiful; and there was meat on the ribs. Maybe they saw the light and took my recommendation. I would rather pay a dollar or so more for something worth eating, than completely blow a lesser amount for something that is not. And…and this is important…there was actually sauce on the wings; not some skimpy drops at the bottom of a paper lined basket.

I am thrilled to death that the Lube is back. The miserable ta-da girl who greeted us there before has been replaced by someone actually smiling and genuinely glad to see you. During our visit the manager actually walked around asking if everything was alright. The wait staff was just outstandingly friendly and helpful…both in Sharon and Austintown.

My cholesterol level and aversion to the fried foods that I love but don’t love me back may keep my visits to the Lube to less than I would like, but Quaker Steak and Lube is back on the list. Hey, could you pass me some more blue cheese dressing for the wings?

A much improved 3 1/2 meatballs!
1/2

Quaker Steak and Lube
101 Chestnut Street
Sharon, PA 16146(
724) 981-WING (9464)
(724) 981-7221
1-800-HOT-WING

Rosewood Grill - A Winner in Hudson, Ohio

2010-10-31T17:25:00.000-07:00

A friend of mine recommended that I try some restaurants located in Hudson, Ohio. For those of you not familiar with Hudson, it is about 45 miles from here located on SR 91 between Akron and Cleveland. It is easily accessible (about a 45 minute drive)…Ohio Turnpike to the I 480 exit; then 480 to Route 91 (Twinsburg) exit; turn left off the freeway and down the pike about 3 miles. It is another charming New England-esque village with great shopping both on Main Street drag and a small shopping mall one block behind the Main Street stores. Beware of traffic. Hudson is a popular destination and has lots of Main Street traffic during high shopping hours!!

This trip we decided to try the Rosewood Grill located on Route 303 in the Turner’s Mill building about one block east of Main Street. This is a great place. Wow! Wow! Wow! Whoever designed this place knew what they were doing. Whoever designed the menu knew what they were doing. Whoever hires the help knows what they are doing. Whoever is cooking the food knows what he/she is doing. This place is a homerun.

It’s located in an old mill converted into the restaurant and some high rent offices. The building is impressive. The restaurant entrance is to the left of the main building and down a ramp. As you enter, to your left, is their outdoor patio. The centerpiece of the patio is a mammoth gas fueled fire pit surrounded by at least 20 seats. The effect is something terrific, and it also serves a purpose for those waiting for tables and want to wait outside. It was a nippy last Saturday night and the space around the fire pit was almost filled.

As you go into the restaurant, a large bar area is off to the left and the dining area is off to the right. It is eye candy. The entire restaurant is done in light earth tones of wood and stone. It is modern, without losing the ambience of being in an old mill with stone walls. These guys must have had a major lighting designer with lighting playing a major part in the restaurant’s overall appearance.

The bar has comfortable bar stools that actually slide on the floor making for easy in and out! It is a long bar whose backdrop is a window into the kitchen where you can watch all of the action, and there is plenty to watch. You wonder how these folks keep from running into each other.

Waiting for our table, my wife and I went to the bar and were informed it was a full service bar and we were welcome to have dinner there if we wanted. That is one of our favorite things to do, and that’s where we stayed. Good move on our part…Gina, our waitress, was terrific, friendly, helpful, knowledgeable about the menu, wine and drinks, and one of the hardest working bartender/server I have ever seen. She made the night absolutely fun and enjoyable.

The menu is eclectic with expensive choices in the $25.00-35.00 range, but also offering a wide array of sandwiches and salads and some killer flatbread pizzas. For an appetizer, we opted for a flatbread pizza made with a port cherry reduction, blue cheese and arugula. OMG. Die and go to heaven time. You can add a salad to your entrée for $3.00, and it is large enough to split between you. So we did…with an outstanding balsamic dressing. For a main course, my wife had butternut squash ravioli topped with shredded chicken and winter veggies all in a sage butter sauce. OMG again!! I had a sirloin steak with a cab reduction; cheddar mashed potatoes, and grilled asparagus. OMG again and again!! We split a dessert of a non-upside down pineapple cake…which turned out to be an absolutely delicious muffin served with the best vanilla bean ice cream I have ever had, and pineapple glazed in a heavy syrup. I am starting to shake.

IMHO, the prices here are reasonable. Good food with the atmospherics, you get a lot of bang for the buck. Our tab for dinner plus two drinks came to $65.00…and it was worth every penny.

Two criticisms: 1) The Rosewood Grill has a no reservation policy, although it does have call ahead seating. You are free to eat at the bar, and there are some bar tables also available for dinner on first come first served. 2) The “ta-da” girls around the hostess station, my uber pet peeve, are a little disorganized. I don’t know why it takes three to look for my name on the call ahead seating list, then give me the buzzer, then look me up to see what face went with buzzer ten minutes later. Such are the minds of “ta-da” girls.

The Rosewood Grill is worth the drive. It is owned by Hospitality Restaurants in Cleveland, which owns several other establishments such as the Blue Point Grill and Delmonico’s Steakhouse. It would get five meatballs but for the two criticisms I mentioned above. Be sure to visit its great website and listen to Michael Stanley’s version of Rosewood Bitters, as well as some of the music that is streamed onto the site.

1/2

The Rosewood Grill
36 East Streetsboro Street
Hudson, OH 44236
330-656-2100

Washington is Lovely During the Midterm Elections

2010-10-26T17:00:00.000-07:00

What better way to get a feel for the midterm election than a trip to D.C. Okay, quit complaining!!! I know that this isn’t about Youngstown Eats. On the other hand, Washington is one of my favorite cities…and in order to get my tax write off, I have to write about something. This is it. Get over it!!!!!!

Seriously, Washington is obviously about government, which is one of my main interests. But is also a beautiful and cosmopolitan city with terrific night life, great shopping, and an energy you won’t find anywhere else. For years, my family and I traveled to Washington to spend the Easter holiday. Easter weekend is less hectic as the tourists are home with their families. Hotels offer good deals to fill the empty rooms, and you can restaurant reservations.

There are lots of Episcopal churches in D.C. and my wife and I, good Episcopalians that we are, would attend Easter services at the Church of Presidents across from the White House, or at a lovely Episcopal Church in Alexandria, Va., that was the home church of George Washington. Women were dressed to the nines, and the uniform du jour for the guys was tan slacks, a navy jacket, and a Brooks Brothers tie.

After so many visits, one gets tired of the historical stuff, and starts to focus on Washington, the city, the home to many non-governmental workers who have work-a-day worries just like you and me. That is the Washington we like.

This trip, we stayed in Georgetown. Georgetown is in the district, but by design was kept separate and apart from the rest of the city when the residents fought the extension of the Metro line into the area. It is a neat place with wonderful old row houses and closely built mansions. Look out your hotel window and you can imagine the Washington during the Civil War. Its core is Georgetown University, giving a real academic flavor, not to mention all the quirks that go with a Jesuit university!! You can walk along the Potomac to the south, and attend church at the National Cathedral to the north...or stroll along the lovely cobblestone streets.

M Street at Wisconsin Avenue, the heart of Georgetown, is one of the most congested areas in the city. Taxis are readily available to get around (expensive). A better choice might be the DC Circulator, a regularly scheduled bus service designed to take Georgetown tourists to most places a tourist might want to go in the District. It is frequent, clean, convenient, and a bargain at a buck a ride (correct change only, please). There is a separate Circulator between Georgetown and DuPont Circle, another hot bed of “toute sorte d’activite.”

We like to stay at the Georgetown Inn located right in the heart of the area. It is a tad dated. Its idea of technology is a phone in the bathroom and a CD/Radio combination… but it is immaculate with a friendly staff that will do anything to help you. It has a great bar jammed with locals during Friday happy hour and Saturday nights. The circulator is right outside the front door and you are within walking distance of anything there is to do in Georgetown. The Ritz Carlton and Four Seasons also claim Georgetown addresses; but are inconvenient to what Georgetown has to offer. Translate, too far to walk…to close to drive!

I can report to you that there is no recession in Washington. Food is pricey, with only rare respites of inexpensive that one has to search out. That being said, we have had some memorable meals there. This trip, we went to two old favorites and a new place. New on the list was Filomena’s Italian Restaurant on Wisconsin Avenue. Located in a basement, this place is over the top in every way…from decorations to huge portions to unbelievable desserts and too close for comfort tables. It is a Georgetown institution, and rated one of the best Italian restaurants in Washington. It has earned the reputation. Dress business casual, and make sure to have reservations as the place is packed.

Two old favorites we visited were Leopold’s Café and Martin’s Tavern. Leopold’s is an Austrian Café located off an alley located just off M Street. Its décor is both charming and modern. It has the nicest outdoor patio that I have seen just about anywhere. Claim to fame here is the pastries…OMG…so many pastries. It has great brunch choices on the weekends, as well as a full bar service and full menu from breakfast through dinner. Leopold’s is a keeper, and definitely non-diet.

Martin’s Tavern is a standby since 1933, right across the street from the Georgetown Inn. It is the real McCoy with Mahogany finished wood and paneling and lots of brass, scrunched together tables and booths, and a convivial bar. This is my favorite place to go. Reservations recommended for weekends. The food is good, not great…but it reeks of class. Look over to the far window booth, and you will see where John Kennedy proposed to Jackie. The overall menu looks old school with a Welsh Rarebit appetizer and a Hot Brown sandwich (a turkey sandwich smothered in rarebit sauce and parmesan cheese, and broiled…I need to catch my breath.) No matter how important or unimportant you are, Martin’s treats everyone the same, even a card carrying member of the Hoy Ploy like me!!

I have lots of friends who go on lots of vacations to many wonderful places…but nobody goes to Washington. Why not give it a try? Take in one historical monument…and then go shop and eat and take in a show. It is a great place to hangout!!!!!

Golden Dawn Restaurant - Youngstown

2010-10-06T16:25:00.001-07:00

I have come to the conclusion that if you were to define Youngstown cuisine, it would be neighborhood tavern food. We have a bunch of them…all bringing us back to the glory days of the steel industry, even as we move forward where no Rust Belt City has gone before. We are so fortunate to have the likes of the Elmton, the Royal Oaks, the MVR, Avalon Gardens, the Boulevard Tavern…and the Golden Dawn Restaurant on Logan Avenue.

I have to confess, for being a Youngstown foodie of sorts, I had never been to the Golden Dawn. I’m kind of ashamed of that. I didn’t even know where it was, though it was legendary back when I was attending Youngstown State University 1968-70. Mostly I heard about its breakfasts. Somehow, in my mind, I pictured it as a dump, and I just never made the effort. Maybe it reminded me of the Golden Dawn grocery chain. Whatever the reason, I just put it out of my mind.

Then this past week, jumpin’ Joe Biden was in town stumping for Ted Strickland’s re-election, and they brought Joe to the Golden Dawn for lunch. Big news!!!! Stories abounded on the local news media about the establishment’s rich past, and how its original owners, Ralph and Carmen Naples, are still running the place well into their 80’s, wearing their trademark white long sleeved shirts and black ties. I said to my self “Self, if it’s good enough for Joe Biden…it’s good enough for me.” So I grabbed my lovely wife, Ginger, and off we went to the Golden Dawn.

Driving there is a sad trip down memory lane as Wick Avenue turns into Logan, and you pass the myriad of closed car dealerships…where Youngstown, and me, bought many an automobile before they all moved to Boardman. Nevertheless, as we passed the Ursuline High School, and the old Barrett Cadillac…there it was!

What a neat place. Plenty of parking surrounds this old house with an added on front restaurant. It was opened for business in 1934, and was one of the first bars to get a liquor license in the area as Prohibition (the Progressives’ dream for the early 20th century) ended. I believe the Royal Oaks was THE first. Go through the front door, and you rapidly conclude that this place is great. It is roomy. It is spotless spit shiny clean. It is open unlike many other tavern spaces. The booths are bright red. The wall to your right is a mass of green Ursuline Fighting Irish memorabilia. And the left is this wonderful curved ½ moon bar.

We perused the menu. Holy smokes. How does this place stay in business? On the breakfast list is eggs, bacon, and toast for $2.75. It has its signature 8 oz. steakburger for $3.75. Sandwiches galore, and entrees mostly priced between six and seven dollars. I had a hunk of ham steak dinner. It was huge, served with corn and home fries and big slice of canned pineapple right on the top. I think I paid around $6.75. The menu has the full gambit, from pizza to breakfast to sandwiches to dinner to wonderful Italian selections (of course). My wife had spaghetti and meatballs, and she said this place is on the A list to go again.

I love places like this. You can kick back and relax. I tend to get a tad claustrophobic, so the openness is a plus for me. Criticisms: the television was blaring LOUD. I know that WYTV did a story on them that we watched while there, so I assume it was turned up so everybody could hear…but it was a tad annoying. And the service was harried. They only had one waitress working that night, and a party of 14 came in, and everything stopped until the guy at the bar, who I assume is one of the family members, jumped in to the rescue. That being said, I felt right at home to the point I could have gotten up and helped out.

If you haven’t been there, go. If you have been there but not for a long time, go back. This place is worth keeping around.

I give it a very enthusiastic 3 ½ meatballs. I need another visit to raise it to 4.

1/2

The Golden Dawn Restaurant
1245 Logan Avenue
Youngstown, OH 44505
330-746-0393

The Terrace Room - Pittsburgh

2010-09-21T19:44:00.000-07:00

Some people go to the country or to the beach for some R&R. Not me. I love to go to the city, and the closest one around with any true urban consequence is Pittsburgh. This past weekend, we ventured into the Steel City with a friend of ours who had never been…to Pittsburgh. We did the cook's driving tour around the perimeter of the city, then parked the car at Mellon Square for a walkabout downtown.

Not such a good idea. Between three sets of feet, you probably couldn’t find a good right foot. My original plan was to go to the 17th Street Café for dinner, but the walk, and our feet, did us in. What we needed was air conditioning and a martini. So we nixed the drive to the south side and headed for the Omni William Penn for a leisurely dinner and few cocktails.

The Omni William Penn is the grande dame of Pittsburgh hotels. There are plenty of new ones. As a matter of fact, the Fairmont Hotel chain just opened a super deluxe hotel near the theater district. Unfortunately for me, I would have to re-mortgage my house to stay there. A little pricey!! Nevertheless, the William Penn fills the bill in elegance and convenience. It is like stepping back into a more gracious time.

The lobby is a stunner, and so is the The Terrace Room, its restaurant. With chandeliers and murals and palm trees and mirrors and well spaced tables…they just don’t make ‘em like this anymore. There was a time back in the 60’s and 70’s when hotel dining was synonymous with expensive, mediocre food. Not anymore. Most big city first class hotels have upped their game to make hotel dining a first class experience.

The Terrace Room is no exception. It has a wonderful Sunday brunch for those attending theater matinees or going to church services at some of the magnificent downtown churches. If you are staying at the hotel, get a bed and breakfast package and you won’t be disappointed. Nothing is more relaxing the drinking mimosas in this absolutely spectacular setting while watching Pittsburgh walk by outside.

This is not a trendy spot, although the action at night in the adjoining lounge and separate Tap Room can get hot and heavy. But one quirk about new Pittsburgh restaurants…they all tend to be a tad avante-garde, looking for a gimmick or trying to be “so California” with lots of stacked food. Not the Terrace Room, its all about a quiet and appreciative dinner experience with no loud music blaring in the background, or high decibel noise levels. It’s all fine china and crystal. I suppose if you are twenty, it would be boring. At age sixty, it is a welcome respite of bygone grace.

The wait staff is properly attentive, friendly, but not too friendly. There is a degree of formality. The food is just old fashioned enough to go with the setting. For example, prime rib was a special of the day, prepared medium to well…huh? Medium to well? Hey, beginning in the 1980’s you ate prime rib rare, or at least medium rare. But I thought I would give it a try hinting to the waiter, the closer that medium came to rare, the happier I would be.

Well…the prime rib came out medium well. I almost sent it back, but I tasted it first and it was wonderful. It was juicy and moist, and flavorful. This how it was prepared when I was a kid. It brought me back to the Crystal Dining Room at the Hotel Pick Ohio in the 1950’s. I doubt if there is another restaurant around today that could pull this off. No doubt this was slow cooked the old fashioned way. It was accompanied by a cheese and bacon bread pudding and perfectly cooked French green beans. I started my meal with a well prepared turkey and rice soup. It had a kick!!! Outstanding!!! I tasted my friends seafood chowder-Manhattan style . Whoa Mama!

We finished dinner with a crème brulee trio…a perfect ending to a great meal.

The downside to the evening was the service was excruciatingly slow... S-L-O-W!! I’m not sure whether that was a good thing or a bad thing. Back in the day, the evening’s entertainment was going out for dinner, the courses were spaced, and you relaxed, drank, and enjoyed the company. Now it's "let’s see how many time we can turn the table over tonight! Here’s your burger, now eat it and get the hell out!!!" Notwithstanding, the slow service was almost annoying.

That being said, if you are ever in Pittsburgh with hot, sore feet, put on your game face and head over to the Terrace Room in the William Penn. Get a martini and cool off. It is the quintessential Pittsburgh experience. Park in the Mellon Square underground garage right across the street from the hotel.

My rating 3 ½ meatballs…1/2 meatball penalty for the slow service.

1/2

The Terrace Room

The Omne William Penn

530 William Penn Place

Pittsburgh, PA 15219

412-553-5235

Restaurant Redux: Cafe 422 - Stonebridge Grille and Tavern - The Iron Bridge - Jeremiah Bullfrog's Sports Bar and Grill

2010-09-16T18:54:00.000-07:00

From time to time I like to re-review places that have either gotten mediocre reviews in the past, to see if things have gotten better; or have received rave reviews to see if things are still the same. I have picked four for updates.

1) Stonebridge Grille and Tavern (Boardman) – This place is great, and I intend to go there more often than I have in the past. The other night my wife and I went for a quick dinner, and confirmed what I had written previously. I had about as good a sirloin steak as I have had anywhere, and that includes some pretty high class and pricey steak joints. Served with shoestring fries on a bed of a blue cheese sauce, it was perfectly cooked and tender. My wife raved about her Chicken Milanese sandwich served with fresh greens and lemon vinaigrette. Her Sweet Potato Fries were so good. Try eating them with vinegar and lots of salt….die and go to heaven time. Lobster bisque, another winner!!! The menu is eclectic. Great bar atmosphere. Prices are fair to a fault. This place is all about the food in a sophisticated tavern atmosphere. I gave it 3 ½ meatballs before…it is now a solid 4 meatballs.

2) Café 422 (Niles) – One of my all time favorite places to go…it just keeps getting better. I have had beef kebobs, lamb kebobs, and chicken kebobs. OMG. They are terrific. The rice the serve with it is terrific. The bread is terrific. The prices are terrific. The atmosphere is terrific. The service is terrific. This place is another local home-run. My only regret is that I don’t live closer because I could probably eat there every night. Gave it 4 meatballs before…and it keeps its 4 meatball rating.

3) Iron Bridge (Mercer) – The restaurant by which I judge all others. If I were to pick the best overall restaurant I frequent, this is it. The atmosphere, the food, the service, the bar service are consistently OUTSTANDING. For the money, you can’t beat this place. Known for its prime rib (I have never had it better anywhere else), you can’t get a bad meal here if you tried. The Springfield Grill Group’s flagship restaurant sets the bar for other restaurants, and also for the chain itself. And I can report that the Springfield Grill restaurants have risen to the challenge rather than the other way around. Notwithstanding, The Iron Bridge is a class by itself. The only downside is the no reservation policy which often means lengthy waits on the weekends. Try to snag a seat at the bar. You will be friends with perfect strangers real fast!! Five Meatballs!!!

4) Jeremiah Bullfrog’s Sports Bar and Grill (Boardman) – Well, what to do, what to do with Jeremiah Bullfrog’s? It is probably the best looking sports bar in the area. There are televisions everywhere, and you can see all of them from just about every place. It has a great bar. There is sports memorabilia galore. The entry way is a little worse for the wear, and so is the carpet in the dining area. Probably time for a redo! The greeting is friendly at the hostess stand. The wait staff is prompt and friendly, although they seem a little disjointed as they try to please…but that’s a good thing! My burger was good. My wife’s spaghetti dinner was good. The bread wasn’t so good, dry and overcooked. But here’s the thing. This is an honest goodness sports bar. Haute cuisine you ain’t gonna get here. And since I am not a sports bar person, I will always be a bit jaded. That being said, I try to give my ratings based on the category of restaurant a place purports to be. And if Jeremiah Bullfrog is a sport bar…it is a great sports bar. I wouldn’t go there just for dinner. But for the big game, there probably isn’t any place in town better suited for a large and rowdy bunch of friends. So for being among the best sports bars in town, I give it a strong 4 meatballs for the bar scene, and 3 ½ meatballs for sports bar food.
1/2 plus () for the bar.

Any of the above places is worth a visit…help your favorite restaurant out in these tough times and go out for dinner!!!!

Vaccaro's Trattoria; Akron's Four and 1/2 Meatball Stunner

2010-09-04T06:39:00.000-07:00

I came home from work yesterday looking to try a new restaurant that wasn’t too far from home and didn’t require me having to mortgage my first born to pay for the meal. Several years ago my wife joined the Stan Hyet Quilt Group in Akron (if you haven’t been to Stan Hyet…GO) so lately we have been exploring this under rated city which is off the radar of those of us from Youngstown.

I went to Trip Advisor and searched Akron Italian restaurants…and picked a pig in a poke. WOWZEE WOWZEE! I hit the jackpot. My wife I enjoyed one of the nicest and most relaxing meals out we have had in a long time.

Vaccaro’s Trattoria is located in a small plaza on Ghent Road in north Fairlawn right off of I-77. One of the reasons I picked it was because of ease of access, either from the south through Akron, or from the Turnpike south on I-77 about 10 miles. Either way takes about an hour.

It takes reservations through Open Table, the national reservation service that has pretty much monopolized that upscale restaurant reservation business. Our reservation was for 6:30, and we were promptly greeted by a friendly host and hostess, and friendliness goes a long way in my book. The restaurant itself is beautifully decorated in shades of cream, brown, gold and olive green. It has a bar in the center and two dining rooms to the left and the right. Bar is medium sized and appeared to be convivial. There are several tables for two that feature these monster high back chairs which are kind of neat.

This place gets a nice crowd of patrons, nicely dressed folks out for an enjoyable dining experience in adult oriented surroundings. You can tell a well trained staff that aims to please. Our waitress was terrific, helpful, knowledgeable, and was actually “part of the act” so to speak. She made the whole evening fun. I watched other members of the wait staff who also seemed to have the same knack.

It has a trattoria menu, hence the name. You can order a specialty pizza or a complete dinner…but this is not a place for young kids. This is serious innovative food with heavy Mediterranean overtones. We started out with the single most outstanding appetizer I have ever had in my life...Mediterranean flat bread which included figs, herbed mascarpone, diced apples, shaved prosciutto topped with a secret recipe drizzle. OMG! This dish alone is worth driving back for. Our server gave us a little history about the development of this particular appetizer, and you can tell these folks are serious about recipe development.

We followed with a salad of tossed greebs served with prosciutto wrapped pineapple slices and brie cheese. The greens were dressed in a simple oil and vinegar dressing. It was a perfect complement to the somewhat sweet flat bread.

For a main course, my wife had Lasagne Primavera, layered with fresh vegetables and mascarpone and ricotta cheese…covered with a pesto cream sauce. She was ecstatic. I am not a pesto fan, so I stayed safe with Veal Parmesan. It was Veal Parm on steroids. Outstanding! My only criticism it was served with a garlic and butter pasta, and too much garlic and me don’t mix!! It should have been listed on the menu as an accompaniment, and I could have told them to nix the pasta. For dessert we had cannoli. All of the desserts are made on premises. The cannoli were filled with a chocolate cheese filling which was light and fluffy and not overwhelming big.

Two additional comments! The portions here are large, so pace yourself. In addition, the wine list here is outstanding… and affordable. From time to time the restaurant features “retail wine night” where you can buy a bottle of wine for dinner at the same price the bottle of wine would cost in a wine store sans the restaurant markup. It is apparently popular, because just about every table around us were taking advantage of the promotion.

The restaurant was packed, so I recommend reservations. The tab for the two of us was around $100.00, but I had a couple of drinks, and we ordered much more “dinner” than we normally would because we wanted to try everything. They do offer a four course tasting menu at $50.00 a head if you want a more controlled foodie experience. There is plenty of parking. This restaurant has received numerous awards from Gourmet and Bon Appetit Magazines, and I am not surprised.

My only criticism is the entry way needs some upgrading in terms of maybe a paint job, otherwise, Vaccaro’s Trattoria is primo…and a 4 meatball plus winner.

plus

Vaccaro’s Trattoria
1000 Ghet Road
Fairlawn, Oh 44333
330-666-6158

Harbor Inn Seafood Restaurant - Portage Lakes/Akron

2010-08-21T05:13:00.000-07:00

Where can you get away when you don’t have time to get away? Try the Harbor Inn Seafood Restaurant on Portage Lakes just outside of Akron. The name of this establishment came up casually in a conversation a week or two ago with a friend of mine. It passed right by me. But later that night, looking for a new place to try out, I thought “Mmmm….Portage Lakes and seafood.” So I found its web site, and last night made the trek to Portage Lakes.

I didn’t know this area existed. Think Lake Milton on steroids! I did some research and found out this is one of the highest areas in Ohio. The terrain is rolling hills. The lakes themselves are at the confluence of a number of rivers right on the divide of the Lake Erie/Ohio River watersheds. The lakes were built to feed the Ohio Lake Erie canals which traversed some old Indian trails. When the canals were abandoned, the lakes were improved to serve as a source of water and water control for Akron and the surrounding area, much like Lake Milton and Meander and Berlin Reservoirs do for Youngstown.

Also like Lake Milton, there are old homes and cottages that go right up to the lakes. This is a relatively old area surrounded by buildings that look like they were built in the late 1930’s through the 1950’s. Drive around and it is like stepping back in time. For you golfers, it is about five minutes away from Firestone Country Club, located just on the opposite side of Main Street.

As for the Harbor Inn itself, it is a throwback. It is built on a small lake harbor along with several other restaurants. Boats can, and do, use the myriad of docks to “park” while the owners eat and drink and the two main establishments located here.

The Harbor Inn apparently tries to be all things to all people. There are three different dining areas, each with a somewhat different menu. There is an inside tavern, the outside deck and patio, and the restaurant and bar itself. The two former spaces have a casual type menu…burgers and stuff. The restaurant is much more ambitious, offering a well selected menu of various seafood and steak entrees on the more pricey side.

The interior is filled with knotty pine and tables placed along windows covered in white paper that looks like white table cloths. Blue is the accent color with blue napkins and candle holders. The architecture absolutely mirrors the period in which the building was built, and I felt like I was back in the 50’s and 60’s again. A baby grand piano was in the middle of the dining room with a pianist playing, annoyingly non-stop, music that matched the décor.

There is a lot of good here, and some bad. Let’s start with the bad. That pianist didn’t stop for a break. He was like a machine. It all sounded alike, and given the size of the dining room, it was loud no matter where you sat. Nice touch in this day and age, but a foot on the damper pedal would have been helpful. In addition, the building is built right out to the street providing limited parking. The primary parking lot is across the street, and not paved…gravel! That’s fine if you are going to the patio or tavern, but if a woman is wearing nice shoes…it is problematic. The street is also busy, especially at 6:30…run like hell!!

That being said, it is refreshing to see a locally owned restaurant trying to maintain some class and dignity in this blue jean hoodie age. Nice class of folks patron the place, although it still basically a casual dockside restaurant with lots of shorts and T’s…but nice shorts and T’s. And the food was very good.

I had crab cakes, which were much better than average, but not as good as the Springfield Grill’s version (the crabcakes by which all others are measured). It was accompanied by some outstandingly crisp oven roasted potatoes and perfectly crispy green beans. My wife had what looked to be an amazing caramelized salmon on a bed of greens and potatoes topped with caramelized onions. She said it tasted as good as it looked.

My wife started her meal with a wonderful salad served with warm goat’s cheese. I love innovative salads and this one filled the bill. But for me, the most memorable part of the meal was the onion soup, served piping hot (like I like it). It was obviously baked for about ten minutes before serving…and the topping was a crust combination of puff pastry, cheese and seasoning which were to die for. Presentation was outstanding, and so was the soup, albeit it could probably do with a little less salt.

Service was prompt, professional and attentive. Our waiter was a pro in every sense of the word, and given that place was packed, it’s clear management doesn’t skip on the wait staff to save a buck as is often the case.

Would I make this a destination restaurant that warranting an hour’s drive? Probably not. On the other hand, if I were in Akron or Canton for a visit, this would be definitely on the top list of places to eat, and I might just make a visit Akron and include this on my itinerary.

I give it 3 ½ meatballs, with the annoying pianist and the gravel parking lot making up the ½ meatball deduction from an otherwise strong 4 meatball restaurant. Call for reservations, this place packs them in.

1/2

Harbor Inn Seafood Restaurant
562 Portage Lakes Drive
Akron, Ohio 44319
330-644-1664

Johnny's - Boardman; Almost Damn Good!

2010-08-13T08:06:00.000-07:00

Johnny’s has been a long time player in the Youngstown restaurant scene. It used to be located on Midlothian Boulevard, and then moved to the space vacated by Café Capri on Market Street in Boardman when Café moved to its new digs across the street. Lots of folks swear by Johnny’s. But for some reason, we just never frequented the joint.

Then one of my organizations had a Board of Directors meeting there a few weeks ago, and as I got half way through my dinner, I realized what I was eating was damn good. I said to myself: “Self, this is damn good.” So my wife and I and a good friend went to Johnny’s for dinner last night to see if I was right, was it really damn good?

Let’s start by saying that Johnny’s is another in a series of stand-alone semi-upscale Italian restaurants in the Youngstown area…all of which are good; none of which is spectacular. Included in the group are Nicolinni’s, Michael Alberini’s, Café Capri, and the Antone’s chain (which isn’t upscale, but has been around so long one has to include them in group); add in the MVR and Avalon Gardens…it gets a tad repetitive, which is too bad because all of them are just fine.

Johnny’s is an attractive space. I am not sure whether any renovation was done by the current owners or if they just moved into the Café Capri space, but it is pleasant enough. The bar is off to the right and the main dining room is to the left from the entry way. What struck me is how empty the restaurant was. The parking lot was full, and there was a banquet going on in their banquet room…and the bar was filled so it must do a good bar business. But for a Thursday night, there were only three tables having dinner, including us.

I wonder why because the food was good, maybe not damn good, but close enough. The menu is varied with a wide range of Italian oriented dishes, and steaks and chops. The waiter was well trained and professional with a great demeanor (although he got distracted when a friend came into the restaurant and they began to chat in earnest).

I had the same dinner I ordered previously at my Board meeting. The Chicken Prosciutto was basically Veal Parmesan with a twist. (Think Chicken Pepperoni from the movie Seems Like Old Times with Chevy Chase and Goldie Hawn!) It was very, very good…and almost damn good. Same could be said for my wife’s salmon and our friend’s seafood medley and pasta. They make a mean martini served absolutely ice cold in an iced glass, and will stuff the olives for you if you ask. We started our dinner with an Italian egg roll appetizer, which was stuffed with chicken, spinach and cheese. That is a combination that my grandmother used a lot of in her cooking, and you don’t see very often in the local restaurants. The marinara sauce here IS damn good. You can eat it with a spoon.

Johnny’s is now on my approved list of place to eat. It deserves more attention than it apparently gets for the quality of its food. Prices are reasonable. Will it get a 4 star Michelin rating? Probably not…but sometimes damn good is more than enough.

I give it a very solid 3 ½ meatballs; a minimal décor upgrade and a web site could move it to 4.

1/2

Johnny’s
7807 Market Street,
Boardman, OH 44512
(330) 758-8262

Sokolowski's University Inn - Cleveland

2010-07-18T17:08:00.001-07:00

One of the joys of cable television is the Travel Channel, and one of the joys of the Travel Channel is Anthony Bourdain’s program, No Reservations. Mr. Bourdain, who is himself a chef and one cool dude, travels all over the world sampling local culture and local food. His shows are earthy, and irreverent, and sometimes rated “not for children”.

Last year, he landed in Cleveland, and decided that Cleveland didn’t suck…his words, not mine. The program was semi-flattering. He used the term “rust belt” a lot. On the plus side, he concentrated on the neighborhoods of Cleveland, and the variety of food it has to offer.

Center stage was Sokolowski’s University Inn in the Tremont section of Cleveland. This is the proverbial local hangout, serving Polish style food since 1923. Mr. Bourdain was accompanied there by his local hosts, who were obviously of Slavic extraction..almost walking stereotypes. But damn, he said the food was good; and damn, it sure looked good. I am sucker for comfort food places and Sokolowski’s looked like the big kielbasa. So we decided to check the place out.

Contrary to bloggers and reviewers, this place isn’t hard to find at all. It is a hop, skip and jump from the West Side Market…about 2 minutes off of the Carnegie Bridge (I had never seen the mammoth statues at either end of the bridge…talk about art deco cool. They are beautiful!).

Like all places of this ilk, it isn’t much to look at on the outside, sort of like an English cottage. Walk inside, and you will find a line waiting to go through the cafeteria. Yes, the food is served cafeteria style. There is a large bar around which the cafeteria line circles. You can kill time while waiting looking at the myriad of pictures on the walls of the place's history and celebrities who have frequented the establishment. Bill Clinton has a plaque by his booth.

The bill of fare is posted at various places along the route. Salisbury steak is its signature dish. You can also try Chicken Paprikash, stuffed cabbage, pierogies, a schnitzel, plus steaks and prime rib. On Friday, they have fried Lake Erie perch. The cafeteria line starts with wonderful desserts made by a “a lady and her daughter”. The chocolate cake is sinful. Then you go past a tub filled with ice, polish beers, and restaurant branded sodas like red pop. Then you get to the main event, and the food looks spectacular. I had the Salisbury Steak, and my wife had the chicken. The mashed potatoes are done from scratch and tasted like Mom used to make. My wife said the pierogies melted in her mouth. Coupled with green beans done to perfection, and a garlic coated role…what else do you need in life? Be warned. The portions are big, and the food is tasty so you can’t stop eating even if you wanted to!

There are two dining rooms, both done in heavy wood overtones, almost lodge like. One room has a fireplace. The other room has a piano along with a pianist playing music, and really nice music, while you are eating your dinner. The guy is supposedly a Cleveland legend. He looks like an enforcer for the Lowellville mob, but has a great touch.

This is going onto my list of top ten places to go. It is fun. It is easy to get to if you are in the Cleveland area. If you haven’t explored the Tremont section of Cleveland, take some time to drive around. It’s kind of neat.

Be warned. Hours tend to be screwy. Lunch is served Monday through Friday 11 – 3. Dinner is served Friday 5- 11 and Saturday 4 – 11. It is closed Sundays. Check the website!!!

Sokolowski’s gets an Anthony Bourdain 4 meatballs. Easy!

Sokolowski’s University Inn
1201 University Road
Cleveland, OH 44113-3642
(216) 771-9236

Gas Lite - Steubenville

2010-07-06T10:02:00.000-07:00

The Gas Lite, in Wintersville just outside of Steubenville, has been one of my favorite spots for years. A friend of mine who lived in the area introduced me to this unique establishment. We shared many a leisurely lunch here filled with steaks and martinis.

The Gas Lite is the quintessential roadhouse steakhouse. It is as unpretentious on the outside as it is in on the inside. Unless you know it is there, you would probably drive right by it. Walk in, and there is a small bar to your right, and two rooms with standard booths and tables. The tables are covered with plastic table cloths. It is family run, with an ambience and easy going attitude I guarantee you won’t find anywhere else.

Here’s the kicker. Frank Sinatra used to hang out here when he performed in Pittsburgh. For those of you unfamiliar with Steubenville, it has a huge Italian population (hometown to Dean Martin). And as such, you will find some nefarious characters, less now than in years past; but the flavor of the place still remains. The walls are covered with pictures of entertainers that have been patrons, as well as other pictures of the owners with big-wigs both here and in Las Vegas. And of course, rat pack chic music plays in the background.

The menu is somewhat limited. The first time I went there I was asked if I wanted the house dressing on my salad. I asked what other kind of dressing they have, and I was told the house dressing. It has gotten much better since then. At any rate, there are a limited amount of Italian dishes on the menu, and some chicken and fish…but mostly you go there for steak.

They have a large steak ($23.00), and a smaller steak ($16.00). Both of these are marinated. They know how to cook them, medium rare means medium rare. The marinade makes them especially flavorful and juicy. Their onion rings are outstanding so I always order two portions…because once you start eating them you just can’t stop and the person next to you is going to want to share, even if it’s your wife!! Slurp them around in the steak juice and you will think you died and went to heaven. The onion rings, of course, are extra. But a salad and choice of potato comes with the meal.

Bread is served in a plastic basket in a baggie. They bring you the standard tiny whipped butter tubs, but will bring you a chunk of real butter if you ask them. Opt for that. More butter more salt always makes things taste better. The drinks are fine. The service is down home friendly.

This is the one place where I can kick back, relax, and enjoy a steak dinner without feeling I need to be trendy or cool. No gimmicks. No sommelier trying to sell you a $50.00 bottle of wine. Just friendly steak and potatoes!

So if you are anywhere down on the river…this place is worth driving to. It is exactly 30 miles from East Liverpool.

Gas Lite gets an unpretentious 4 meatballs.

The Gas Lite
820 Canton Road
Wintersville, OH 43953
(740) 264-2225

Schmidt's Restaurant und Sausage Haus - Columbus

2010-06-26T09:06:00.000-07:00

Well…it’s good to be back after the two month hiatus in which I tried to mingle politics and food. Maybe it’s not such a stretch. I have never met an underfed politician!!! As you can tell from the Mark Knows It All blog, I was in Columbus this past week. And as such…I ate in several of those “wonderful” Columbus restaurants. Let’s face it. Columbus food sucks; not a pretty comment, but true! They cook different than we do, and I am glad I live here and not there. I know folks who have moved back to the Mahoning Valley just because the food is better…seriously.

That being said, for OSU grads like me who make numerous trips back and forth from our state capital, we still have to eat. One of the mainstays of any semi-regular visitor is Schmidt’s Sausage Haus located on Kossuth Street in the German Village district. Everyone goes there. Go often enough, you will probably see your next door neighbor stopping in for some schnitzel or a Brat sandwich. During football season, the trek to Schmidt’s is mandatory. You can get a thousand extra years in purgatory if you don’t go! Worse yet, they may pull your name from the football lottery!!!

I have made many a trek down to Schmidt’s since 1968, and this visit to Columbus was no exception. Here’s the problem. I don’t like it, and I don’t think I ever did. Maybe it’s a function of getting older, or the novelty wore off years ago. Whatever the reason, this trip I finally admitted what I have been thinking for years every time I walk through the door…what in God’s name am I doing here?

I begin by saying that if you haven’t been here, it is a Columbus tradition and you should go at least once. German Village is a beautiful and historic part of Columbus with lovely brick houses and narrow streets. You couldn’t design this type of area from scratch if you tried. The restaurant itself fits right in, looking like German beer hall both outside and in.

Go through the front door and you pass it’s take out section with one refrigerated case filled with various types of sausages and another filled with its rich, cream filled pastries and other desserts. All of the wait staff is appropriately attired in German costume. When you are done eating, you can visit the little gift shop across the street that sells fudge and chotchkies. It is especially nice in the summer, when you can go outside while you wait for a table..and avoid the absolute chaos inside the restaurant proper.

Let’s start with the “getting in” phase. Come on the wrong night, and you can wait an hour plus for a table. The waiting area is cramped with a horrible traffic pattern trying to get to the hostess station to give them your name and number. People are climbing all over one another. It is hot. It is claustrophobic. Want to go to the bar to get a beer while you wait for a table? Fuggetaboutit!! The bar is tiny and located behind those cream puff cases and the hostess stand and all of those people. If you are lucky enough to snag a barstool, guard it with your life.

They have an oompah band, consisting of two people who play multiple instruments…all at the same time. It is scary. They have had the same guys playing there for years. They are soooo loud. And if you are unfortunate enough to be assigned a table right in front of them after you have stood in line for an hour, better have your ears checked when you leave for loss of hearing. This past time I had to tell the hostess don’t even think about putting us there when it looked like that is where we would end up.

They have a full service menu which is nice enough if you like German food. It is filled with sauerbraten and schnitzel, which aren’t half bad. Sandwiches seem to be a better choice. The Reuben is good. Their signature sandwich is the Bahama Mama! But they try to plug their buffet, which comes with one entrée and an array of the different kind of sausages. Many people who are of the “all you can eat” ilk like it. I have never seen the attraction and avoid it, especially because this tends to be a family place and the lil’ darlins’ like to hang around the buffet. It comes with a dessert discount.

The food here is consistently okay. There is not much you can do to hurt schnitzel..and there isn’t much you can do to help it either. It’s just schnitzel. The Sauerbraten is tasty. They have great sauerkraut balls. The desserts look spectacular…but in my humble opinion, they look better than they taste, which is not that unusual for these kinds of desserts. Cream puffs are offered with either whipped cream or custard fillings. The German Chocolate cake is probably the best I have had.

Whether the food is good or bad fades into insignificance by the time you finally sit down and acclimate yourself to the very loud noise levels and the harried service.

If you can go there on an off night, you’re probably better off unless you are in an uber party mood and love to sing German drinking songs with the oompah band.

My rating: Three bratwurst meatballs.

Schmidt's Restaurant
Und Sausage Haus
German Village
240 East Kossuth Street
Columbus, Ohio 43206
Telephone:
614.444.6808

Luva Bella Winery - Lowellville, OH

2010-04-30T17:13:00.000-07:00

I went to a political fundraiser last Monday night at a place called Luva Bella. This little wine boite is located east of Poland on Route 224 in Lowellville. It takes a little effort to get there, and it is worth it. This is a great spot.

First and foremost, it is a winery. The facility is not particularly attractive from the outside, but it’s a winery, not a restaurant. The inside is rustic. It is very attractive with a large bar area on one side and a more restauranty space on the other. It has a patio outside.

The restaurant facility is only opened Thursday, Friday and Saturday, except during wine making months in late summer and fall. Check for the times they are open. The menu is limited to paninis and wonderful wood fired pizzas, which are outstanding, along with wine and cheese plates and small accompaniments to go with the wine. The owner made it clear to me when I talked to him it is not his intention to run a restaurant. He wants this to be a true winery. The owner has succeeded in striking a balance between some of the bare boned facilities you see up around Lake Erie, and some of the overdone ones like Ferranti’s winery. (It’s not that I don’t like Ferranti’s, but it has crossed the line into tourist heaven).

Luva Bella is all about the wine. The place is noisy as there is no sound proofing anywhere. Wine lines all of the walls. The entire place looks like one gigantic wine cellar done in browns and maroons and California type tiles. When we were there tonight, there were white table cloths on the bar and restaurant tables, a nice touch to give it just enough class.

So let’s get to the heart of the matter. The food is good, but like I said, it is secondary to the wine. And the wine it very, very good!! There is nothing pretentious about its offerings. Each of the wines is straight forward, and at least the ones I sampled, seem to be on the delicate side, which suits me fine. The Passion label features light and fruity offerings, and tend to be on the sweet side. These are great for summer. My favorite is the Apple Riesling which, well, once you start drinking it it’s hard to stop. Bring a designated driver.

It also has more traditional types of wine for those who with a more traditional palate. But all of the wines are delicate, and memorable. That includes the wine they bottle for Boom Boom Mancini named Southpaw, a gentle and delicate Cab, which goes down easy.

For those who want something stronger, it offers a full bar service.

Taking wine advice from me is like asking me to tune your car’s engine. I know nothing, to quote Sgt. Schultz…but I know what I like. I like the wine. I like the food. I like Luva Bella.

Have some fun and pay it a visit.

Three ½ Meatballs…Four for the wine.

Luva Bella Winery
6597 Center Road (Route 224)
Lowellville, OH 44436-9556

Phone: 330.536.6450

High Pointe Tavern and Restaurant - Niles

2010-04-16T16:43:00.000-07:00

I’m dreaming of the day when I can once again get into my fine, white automobile, and hit the road looking for some new foodie places in that magnificent 150 mile corridor between Pittsburgh and Cleveland. But for now, duty calls, and I am still out saving the country attending political events, rallies, and tea parties. As my radio spot says: how much freedom have you lost today?

Until the primary on May 4th, I am trekking around the Mahoning Valley, looking for places to eat that don’t take too much time but are still satisfying. And as you can imagine, these places usually turn out to be Italian, Italian, and Italian.

I didn’t know too much about the High Pointe Tavern and Restaurant. I have driven past it many time on Route 422 going to Warren or the Eastwood Mall complex. Located on the corner of Route 422 and Vienna Rd., it is actually two, two, yes two, treats in one. Actually there is the tavern part and there is the restaurant part. I am talking about them separately because they are two big operations that don’t look connected.

Let’s start with the bad. We first wandered into the tavern (tr: bar) part looking for the restaurant. It’s a big bar. I suppose there is a connection to the restaurant part somewhere, but I felt uncomfortable in the place and didn’t hang around to try to look for it. It is big. It is dark. Everything looks utilitarian. There are the obligatory big screen TV’s. If you are bar dude or dudette, I suppose this would appeal to you. I am a straggling middle aged overweight guy who just wants a good meal. This wasn’t for me.

We made a hasty exit out of the place, and found the entrance to the restaurant down the walk a piece. We had to look for it. But when I walked in, I couldn’t believe the restaurant was owned by the same people who owned the bar, excuse me, tavern. The restaurant is extremely attractive and tastefully done in shades of blonde woods and burgundy accents. There is seating on two different levels, and an attractive separate bar across the one of the dining room. I was impressed. It is a nice space.

To be sure, this is yet another of Italian restaurants that strive to be something more than they really are. It’s not just High Pointe. I have reviewed numerous of these places over the past year…this is what sells in the Youngstown area. So after awhile, you get a tad jaded. They all begin to look and taste alike.

But on its own merit, this place is okay!!! The service is extremely friendly. The menu is ambitious. Pasta your way is sort of the gimmicky thing they have going on where you can select numerous ways to have your spaghetti. In addition, there are numerous chicken and veal dishes of the same variety we have come to love in this area.

I wasn’t all that hungry when we were there, so I got a small pizza. It was very, very good with a great crust. In fact, as crust goes, this was about as good as I have had anywhere. My wife ordered spaghetti. It was OK. The meat sauce is a meat sauce. Some folks like that, others don’t. I tasted it and it was OK, but not my style. My wife liked it though.

But here’s the thing. The bowl of spaghetti and meatballs my wife ordered could have served four people. It was huge. And everything else I saw coming out of the kitchen was supersized, including the steaks and burgers. Given that the most expensive price point on the menu seemed to be $15.00, that is a lot of bang for the buck. BTW, the above picture is really a picture of their double burger.

It is hard to judge a place like this on a bowl of spaghetti and a pizza. The other menu items I saw made me want to try this very attractive dining room again and order some real food. For that reason, I am not going to give it a meatball ranking.

But from what I saw, maybe you ought to give it a go. Then we can meet over coffee and compare notes.

High Pointe Restaurant and Taverne
754 Youngstown Warren Road
Niles, OH 44446
330-544-3300

Restaurant Shortcakes: Fast Food; Davidson's; Rosetta Stone

2010-04-02T06:50:00.001-07:00

Shortcake 1

I have been extremely busy saving the country these past few weeks, so my dining out has been, for the most part, limited to my club and numerous fast food joints. The food at my club is great, if a tad predictable...IN A GOOD WAY! But there is comfort in constancy. Being consistently good is half the battle...and the staff is like family.

Fast food is another issue. Have you noticed of late the cost of fast food? I waste money each day by eating my lunch out. The rotation includes Wendy’s, McDonald’s, and Arby’s. Of the bunch, Arby’s is probably the healthiest. It is also a bit pricey. Get one of their “meals”, and it takes very little to get you up into the $8.00 - $10.00 range, a bit much for queuing up for your Mocha shake. Wendy’s and McDonald’s are somewhat better, but don’t stray off the Dollar Menu too much or you can be hitting the fast food stratosphere real fast. Same goes for Five Guys, which is just downright expensive. Order a hot dog, fries and drink…and it is $7.00 plus city.

The point of this discourse isn’t that fast food is bad. I like Arby’s and Wendy’s. But if you are looking for comparative value, you can go to a sit down establishment, and with careful planning, eat much better for close to the same price without being next to a table of screaming kids throwing the toys around from their Happy Meal.

Shortcake 2

One place I have discovered as my politics has taken over my life is Davidson’s in Cornersburg on Canfield Road. This place has been there for a long time, and we never went there even though it is just 5 minutes down the pike from where I live; but because the traffic is so horrendous on Route 224, my family and I started going there simply as a matter of convenience. I kind of like it!!

It has a large menu. The food is high end wedding food, which to those of us in Youngstown is like mother’s milk. The other night I ordered stuffed chicken breasts with baked sweet potatoes. It came with canned green beans. And you know what? It was great!!!! I have had better everything other places, but for some reason, wedding style chicken breasts and a bowl of canned green beans really hit the spot. The hamburgers are good. The Italian offerings aren’t bad at all. Haute Cuisine? Not a chance. But some nights nothing tastes better.

The atmosphere is clean. There are three medium sized dining rooms with a separate bar at one end of the building. The wait staff is extremely friendly. Lots of families go to this place. If you are in a hurry, or simply don’t want anything fancy, give this place a try.

Shortcake 3

Two weeks ago my wife and I went to the Victorian Players on Mahoning Avenue to see a Sherlock Holmes play. We bumped into two other couples who are friends of ours, and after the show we decided to go the Rosetta Stone in downtown Youngstown for a drink and something to eat.

Usually when a restaurant experience is just plain bad, I won’t write about it because it is a tough business and I don’t want to hurt anyone. But this just didn't go well. So for the first time in a long time, I wrote the owner of the restaurant a detailed description about what happened. Greg Sop is true gentleman, and answered my letter with a telephone call. It turns out we are sympatico on any number of issues, and it's clear to me that he really wants to make Rosetta Stone one of downtown Youngstown's best assets.

He has addressed all of the issues I raised in my letter. Being on the Board of Tippecanoe Country Club has educated me about the "joys" of running a food service facility, and I understood exactly what he was saying, and what he has done to solve the problems. The food service business is tough.

So my hat is off to Mr. Sop, and his efforts at making downtown Youngstown a better place and his attention to issues raised by his clientele. And especially for contacting me about my concerns. I am looking forward to returning to Rosetta Stone in the near future, and hopefully will be able to give it a great review that I am sure will be well earned.

Buena Vista Cafe and Sports Bar - Warren, OH

2010-03-19T17:41:00.000-07:00

We have been to the land of milk and honey, and it is called the Buena Vista Café. Folks, this is simply a great place. We were looking for someplace new to go for dinner tonight, and I noticed on one of those goofy cable guys commercials on Armstrong Cable a new restaurant was added to the chef’s ad. We looked the Buena Vista Café up online, and we gave it a go. I am glad we did. This is, in my humble opinion, the best restaurant of this genre I have eaten in long time.

Its location is kind of crappy. The neighborhood isn’t that great and it backs up against a manufacturing plant. If you haven’t been there, it is the general vicinity of Warren Harding High School. It is easy to reach. North Road to Atlantic. Atlantic to Buena Vista (just past Elm) and it located about a block or two up the road.

I am not quite sure how to describe the place. It is not fancy on the outside, although they have a canopied entrance and small outside patio area. The inside has two good sized dining rooms and a somewhat detached bar. The one dining room is done in pastel shades, and the other is done in a sports bar motif. Both of these are pleasant spaces, and surprisingly quiet given the number of people who were eating there (packed to the rafters). Chairs for the tables are a cut above the usual cheap stuff you see in a lot of places like this.

The bar is outstanding. The bar itself is this ornate wooden thing. I believe the ceiling is tin, but the center is a football field lined with shelves filled with football helmets. There are wooden booths at which to eat, and decorations everywhere. It was packed, and everyone was having a great time.

The foundation of the restaurant menu is Greek, but not overdone. Its claim to fame is Uncle Nick’s Greek Fried Chicken. It is prominently displayed on the menu in various clucky combinations. I didn’t order it, but it gets rave reviews.

But the chef here has added some serious food. It is a nice variety of steaks and chops, and numerous fish and Italian selections. Appetizers include smelts (on special) and calamari. My wife had the all you can eat beer battered fish, and she loved it. You can substitute a baked potato for the fries for fifty cents. You can also order Chicken Marsala and Chicken “Franchise”.

I ordered the Veal Parm. The sauce here is outstanding. It is probably the best restaurant tomato sauce I have anywhere. It is rich, but not overly rich; medium thickness; just enough seasoning to move it up from bland to tasty with no lingering aftertaste whatsoever. If garlic was in it, they hit it just right.

This appears to be a family run business that I know has been there for many years. I am going to guess that the folks working there are all related to the owner in one way or another… because they were all so nice and helpful and prompt. They have bus boys continually walking around the room looking to assist you at any time. The waitress is probably the nicest waitress I have had in years, and actually cared if you enjoyed your meal. They are rightfully proud of this place.

Yes, the Buena Vista Café is sports bar…and a neighborhood tavern…and attempts to offer cut above dishes that often don’t work at other places of this ilk. But here it does…and it does so in spades.

I give it an enthusiastic four meatballs plus for being the best in class…and we will be back.

++

Buena Vista Café and Sports Bar
1305 Buena Vista Avenue
Warren, OH
330-372-4493

The White Rose Spaghetti House - Masury, OH

2010-03-03T18:35:00.000-08:00

I have a penchant for “hole in the wall” family restaurants. I love their ambience, their history, and the local flavors. So I had heard rumors about a spaghetti place in Masury, Ohio, that was supposed to be pretty good. WHERE? In Masury, Ohio!!! For those of you who don’t get around much in our little corner of the world, Masury is one of a plethora of small political subdivisions which are the curse of this part of Ohio and Western Pa. It is located on Rt. 62 between Hubbard and Sharon. If you take Ohio Route 82 to Sharon, you exit right into Masury and drive through it for about 1/8th of a mile.

The White Rose Spaghetti House has been serving the locals for since 1940. It is located on Standard Road. Driving in from Hubbard on Rt. 62, if you reach the PA line you have gone too far. The road is off to the left just before the state line, and looks more like a driveway than a street. You have to look for it. The street goes up a tiny hill, and at the pinnacle of the tiny hill is the White Rose. You can see it from 62.

Let’s be honest. The outside is less than attractive. It looks like kind of a dump. The parking lot swings along the street, and it is a tad confusing how to get into the place. The doors are these old wooden things. If you are looking for a period place to eat, this is it in spades. It kind of creeps you out.

Inside is something to behold. The overall initial impression is that of an old college dormitory cafeteria. It is a big room with booths around the walls and all of these tables in the center lined up in perfect order. The tables are these period wooden things with old time formica tops. You can’t cross your legs under the tables because of an edge. The seat coverings on the booths and chairs are vintage. The floors are old style linoleum, like your elementary school in the early 1950’s. The walls are decorated with murals of Italia on the top, and faux stone work on the bottom. And on each of the tables is a Chianti bottle with a candle sitting on a red plastic dish with matches so you can light it. All you can say is “Oh, my!”

There is the dining room, and then there is a bar area with tables. The bar is classic with old style metal and cushion bar stools. This place is hard core, bare boned. Separating the two rooms are two pieces of heavy HVAC equipment the purpose of which is unknown. Music blasts from a radio in the corner of the dining room playing Top 40 stuff. But the place was busy for a Wednesday night, and the locals must love it.

So, is this quintessential cheap place to get a spaghetti dinner? Not exactly. When the server brought over the combination placemat/laminated menus, my teeth almost dropped out of my mouth. This place is not only NOT cheap, it is downright close to being expensive. The spaghetti dinners are priced right around $10.00. The same with the lasagna! There are some grilled chop and steak items pushing the $20.00 range. And portion control is definitely practiced.

The sauce is about as mild a tomato sauce I have ever had. It might be described as delicate. My family came from a part of Italy that cooks like this, so I am used to extremely mild Italian food. I think this is the only part of Italy that thinks garlic is a dirty word. We use it sparingly if we use it at all. If you want a hardy sauce with gusto, go someplace else.

I had the lasagna. It was very good, and very mild. A little cheese sprinkled on it plus some black pepper helped give it some flavor.

Let’s cut to the chase. The food here is good. It deserves its reputation. The service is good compliments of friendly servers. Their house dressing is outstanding and the bread is great. But at these prices…you can get a better meal with a 1000% better ambience at Café Capri.

But I think that people who frequent this place do it for reasons other than the good, albeit expensive, basic Italian fare. I had family that lived in Masury, and I spent many of my childhood national holidays there. This is a close knit community, and places like the White Rose represent maybe a simpler time. Right down the bottom of that tiny hill on Standard Street used to be GATX, General American Transportation. The company built refrigerated railroad cars and provided a good income to several of my uncles and cousins for most of their lives back in the day.

At the White Rose, back in the day is still here.

My rating: 3 meatballs.

The White Rose
802 Standard Avenue
Masury, OH 44438-1227
(330) 448-8823

The Original Oyster House - Pittsburgh

2010-02-19T13:26:00.000-08:00

Want to eat in a movie set? Try the Original Oyster House in downtown Pittsburgh. This living anachronism of a restaurant has been featured in over 25 films, including Night of the Living Dead, Cemetery Club, and Bruce Willis’ Three Rivers. But you shouldn’t be surprised. This place is 139 years old and is Pittsburgh’s oldest operating restaurant.

It has been serving seafood in the heart of the Golden Triangle for since 1870 and has only had five owners. If you are looking for a normal place like the Youngstown Crab Company, or those of you from the big city expecting something trendy like Mitchell’s Fish Market…fuggedaboutit! The Original Oyster House is hard core. This place is old. It is gritty. Its food is heavily breaded and deep fried…and it is wonderful.

It is located on Market Square, which until recently gave you taste of mid 1800’s Pittsburgh before all the big skyscrapers. It was surrounded by eateries and blue collar bars. I have been in the square in the middle of winter, surrounded by “revelers” (on “Light Up Night”, they wouldn’t let you onto the square unless you had a beer in your hand.)

All of that is changing now. They are putting a brand new subway transportation hub under the square, and hope to clean it up a bit; a Disneyfication of this wonderful old blue collar space, so to speak. So right now it is a tad torn-up, and access is a challenge. But getting to the Oyster House is worth it.

The atmosphere is aged “divey”. There are two sides to the place. There is a restaurant side, which is somewhat normal. Then there is the bar side, which is a hoot. Gird your loins and visit the place and see all sorts of Pittsburgh original characters. The whole place is done in black and white tile like an old New York City subway station. The walls are covered almost entirely with pictures of celebs that have visited the joint, but mostly with pictures of old Miss America pageants from Atlantic City. The memorabilia has to be worth a fortune, but it is just hanging on the wall.

The tables are rickety and cramped. The service is diner-esque. The menus are on the wall or on semi-dirty menus. The food is prepared in the basement and sent up to the bar on a dumb waiter. And down in that basement are ladies who have worked there for years breading just about anything you can bread…and serving it up.

From its name, oysters are the mainstay of the place. They are served heavily breaded…I mean heavily breaded so they kind of look like pucks. The debate rages on as to whether there is an actual oyster in the center of all of that breading. But I saw a documentary on this place, and yes, Virginia, there is an oyster in there…somewhere. But people sop them up. They offer a jumbo fish sandwich, and a monster fish sandwich. Both are made from fried Cod, and are HUGE. The jumbo will suffice, thank you very much. The same wonderfulness can be found in the Fish and Chips. Tartar sauce is kept in plastic ketchup containers on the table, maybe for a week? But I always preferred my tartar sauce aged!!!

The Original Oyster House has the best fried fish sandwich I have ever had anywhere. And when I get the urge, I will drive to Pittsburgh just to visit this place. It is one of my favorite places to go.

I know many people find Pittsburgh disconcerting. But if you are ever in the city for a Steelers or Pirates game, cross the bridge into the triangle and give this place a try. Nothing fancy; you will eat like there is no tomorrow and be out of there for under $25.00, and it would be stretch to reach that.

For its outrageous fried fish sandwiches and delectable history, the Original Oyster House is a true “original” and gets 4 meatballs.

The Original Oyster House
20 Market Square
Pittsburgh, PA 15222
412-566-7925

The Saratoga Restaurant - Warren

2010-02-03T17:00:00.000-08:00

I guess you can go home again, at least food wise. Just take a short trip to Warren and visit the Saratoga Restaurant on East Market Street, just east of the square. This place has been at the same location for over 90 years, as the owner says…with only street parking.

All cities the size of Warren had or have a restaurant like this. I’m not sure even how to describe it. It is several major cuts above diner food, but not white table cloth. Maybe kind of deli-ish without the deli? Perhaps a forerunner of Howard Johnson’s or Applebees?

Suffice it to say walking into this place is like stepping into an old slipper…a throwback to the 1940’s and 50’s. The place is lined with original wooden booths. Each booth has a high back, and really aren’t that comfortable. But there is a decorative mirror on the wall of each booth and decorative wall sconce lighting as well. The booths themselves are made of black leather, and the tables are old black formica with a red decorative border. The overall effect may be an old railroad dining car…but much bigger. For as old as this place is, these items have been meticulously maintained, perhaps because the same family has owned the joint since the Great Depression.

There is a diner style counter in the front…all aluminum and polished steel. Behind the counter are some remnants of time past…useable items…not props, including an old milkshake machine in sea foam green.

The food is as dated as the restaurant…the style of food, that is!!! They were out of the Salisbury steak. But there were various fish offerings on the specials sheet, including a grilled t-bone steak for $14.00, the most expensive item on the menu. Appetizers include shrimp cocktail and a fruit cocktail….I kid you not. Fried chicken seems to be a signature dish, and I noticed several people who ordered it. The place was actually fairly busy for a Wednesday night.

My wife and I ordered hard to screw up “Hot Spot” sandwiches….hot turkey and hot roast beef. The turkey was real roast turkey and the beef was your mom’s "cook the hell out of it" beef roast in full slices. Better than credible, and for $6.95, who’s complaining? We topped it off with a piece of Sam’s Club carrot cake and some homemade rice pudding. Both of these seem strangely appropriate for the surroundings. We were out the door for $23.00, including tax and tip.

This place is primarily a breakfast and lunch place for downtown Warren employees heavily weighted to government officials and lawyers. Don’t go there looking for haute cuisine. There is a reason places like this didn’t make it to the 1960’s. America’s taste in food changed. But you know what? Just being there was a hoot, and before we knew it, we had lingered over our coffee and dessert talking for more than an hour. Home again…lost in the 40’s. We are fortunate to have a place like this around, and should make an effort to patronize it.

The Saratoga is open Monday – Friday 8:00 – 8:00; closed Saturday and Sunday.

My rating: 3 meatballs for the food…5 meatballs for just being there.

The Saratoga Restaurant
129 East Market Street
Warren, Ohio 44481
330-393-6646

Nicolinni's Austintown PLUS Restaurant Review Redux

2010-01-21T11:24:00.000-08:00

I have been trying unsuccessfully to get a reservation at Michael Alberini’s on a Saturday night for three weeks in a row. It must be wonderful for them that the only available times are 4:00 in the afternoon or 9:00 at night. I will try one more time, and then wait until it hits the inevitable slump when another new hot spot enters the market; and another new hot spot ALWAYS enters the market. Nevertheless, Michael Alberini’s loss was my gain as my wife and I were able to visit two old favorites and try someplace new.

Let’s start with something new. Nicolinni’s has been an Austintown standard for years and years. They expanded out to the terminally busy Route 224/I680/South Avenue corridor a year or so ago (next to Starbucks at the old Bull and the Bear Tavern). Given that the Austintown location has been in business since God knows when, it made me wonder why we never go there. I suspect it’s because the outside of the Austintown location is dumpy. It is singularly unattractive. And given that it is just one more of a plethora of Italian restaurants in the area, my wife and I just never got around to it!

Too bad! It was our loss. My son and I were looking for a place for dinner the other night while my wife was out with her club girls, and we drove by the Austintown Nicolinni’s, and I said “Let’s give it a go!!” So we did.

The crummy outside belies a very attractive inside. No windows, but Tuscany abounds in the interior decorations. The bar is straight inside the side door main entry way, and the dining room is off to the left. It was a Tuesday evening, and obviously not very busy at 5:30. So the hostess pulling up her pants was a tad startled when we walked through the door. But we all had a good laugh, and business picked up as the evening wore on.

Let’s cut to the chase. This was my first time here, and I will be coming back. Service was good. They bring out an abundant basket of delicious bread along with a huge chilled pewter bowl of salad tossed with a sweet and sour dressing and chilled plates for sharing. I had the Chicken Marsala, which was very, very good. My son had the cavatelli, which was also good. Menu had a wide variety of items from pasta to veal and chicken dishes to steaks. On the down side, I have had better tomato sauce…but that is always a matter of preference. I like a smooth sauce and they serve a chunky sauce.

If there is a problem, it rests with the fact that there are so many of this type of restaurant in the area. They are everywhere, and everybody has his/her favorite. This one tends to be a bit pricier than some in this category ($11.00 pasta and $24.00 steaks). On the other hand, the food is good, and that’s half the battle.

I look forward to trying Nicolinni’s Boardman on a Saturday night to see how they do. But the Austintown location is easier to get to from my house, and it is being added to the list.

My rating: a “mangia” 3 ½ meatballs.

1/2

Restaurant Review Redux:

Café 422 on the strip in Niles just keeps getting better and better. These guys have a hit on their hands. The food has gone from good to really good, the service is polished, the prices are fair, and the owners are so damn friendly and accommodating I can’t believe I am living in 2010. Prime Rib is outstanding, and the best bread in Ohio made on the premises.

17th Street Café off of Carson Street in Pittsburgh…moved up higher on my favorite places to go list. This is a real neighborhood joint with high end café type food and an owner who bubbles with personality while working hard to keep his customers happy. Best zucchini planks you will ever have anywhere. Cinnamon Chicken filled with a cream cheese stuffing…wow!!!!

Stonebridge Grille and Tavern - Boardman

2010-01-07T17:33:00.001-08:00

Christmas and New Years is over, and I am totally stuffed with rich food and way too much booze. Nevertheless, one must do what one has to do. It’s time to hit the restaurant trail once again in search of the perfect meal.

Neither rain nor snow will keep me from my appointed rounds. So tonight I got bundled up, cleaned off the car, warmed it up while scraping the windows, dragged a bunch of snow into the front seat as I fumbled with the defroster, and headed off to the Stonebridge Grille and Tavern right next to Handle’s on Route 224 at Tippecanoe Road.

What’s that you say? Wasn’t that Rockne’s…home of the piles of greasy Idora Park fries smothering that double hamburger with the secret sauce? Yes, it is…but it has been magically reincarnated!!

Seriously, I know the owner of this place and he is a great guy. Rockne’s held one of the original liquor licenses in this part of the woods, and had an illustrious history for those of us who live in the area. Originally part of a thwarted chain, my friend did a credible job of making a silk purse out of a sow’s ear with Rockne’s…not one of my favorite places to go.

Then last year something happened, and my buddy closed Rockne’s down, and went independent with his new concept restaurant…Stonebridge Grille and Tavern. Going it alone is tough in the restaurant biz, and I questioned what he was doing. But nobody asked me.

He did some renovation, and did a credible job of transforming whatever Rockne’s was into a sophisticated space with quiet contemporary music and vintage jazz playing in the background. It is an adult setting without being stuffy. Yes, it still has some of the Rockne’s look, but for the most part, the ambience is inviting with a big city feel. It is still one of the great bar areas in Mahoning County.

To the left of the entry is the dining room. You can just walk into the bar area off to the right and sit wherever you want, which is what we like to do. The bar area has both booths and high top tables from which to choose.

The menu has been streamlined, and it is a grille menu. There is an abundance of sophisticated sandwiches from which to choose, priced in the $6 - $8 range. It has a limited grill section featuring steaks and chops in the $14.00 range. To say the prices here are fair is an understatement. I don’t know how these folks make any money at these prices. Dinner includes a salad and one side. Gone are those God awful Idora fries, replaced with yummy mashed potatoes or sophisticated sweet potato fries. Very good.

I have visited this place three times in the last 4 months. The first time was outstanding. The second time was a disaster. This past time matched the first time. My son and I both had the sirloin steak…and for the money, it is hard to beat. My wife had a huge bacon, lettuce, tomato, and egg sandwich. Looked good to me! Salads are standard fare with a tasty white vinaigrette house dressing served on the side.

This is not the quintessential white table cloth restaurant experience. Stonebridge is unique to this area, shying away from all of the Italian fare and hype that goes with that kind of place. It is contemporary and sophisticated, with innovative food and a novel approach to food service that I am not sure will catch on in this area, but which I thrilled to have so close to where I live.

Stonebridge Grille and Tavern is a winner if it can keep up the consistency of the quality of food we had tonight and on our first visit. I hesitate to give it 4 meatballs because of that iffy visit a few weeks ago.

So for today, I give it a strong 3 ½ meatballs, and enthusiastically recommend that you give it a try. I think you will like it as much as I do. I plan to go back soon, and hopefully I will be able raise that 3 ½ to 4!!!!

1/2

The Stonebridge Grille and Tavern
1497 Boardman Canfield Road
Youngstown, OH 44512
330-629-8060

Local Christmas Events to Feed Your Christmas Spirit

2009-12-09T07:18:00.000-08:00

Once again, the Christmas season has caught up with us, and we have been to ho-ho busy to go out for a nice dinner at a place that we have yet to grace with our omnipotent presence. BUT, the stuff we have been doing has been really great, so I thought I would write about that.

We are so fortunate to live in this area which has been blessed with an abundance of talent. I can’t think of any other metropolitan area of our size, or larger for that matter, that has such a variety of things to choose from in support of the arts. Rather than stuff our faces with rich food, my wife and I have made an effort to participate in some of these events, and we are the better for it.

The Butler Institute of American Art’s American Holiday Arts and Craft Show may have a politically correct name, but it is a classy event in spectacular surroundings offering hand made things to buy that are a major cut above what you will see in your high school gym, or anywhere else for that matter. This is classy event. It ran last weekend. If you missed it, mark your calendar for next year.

Both the Covelli Center and DeYor Center have brought numerous professional entertainment events to the area. Beginning at the end of November, you could have chosen from the Gaither Brothers reunion tour, the Kenny Rogers Christmas Show, the Trans Siberian Orchestra, and Mannheim Steamroller. We chose to see Mannheim Steamroller at Powers Auditorium, and weren’t disappointed. The show was just long enough, and offered most of their music which are now considered holiday classics. These guys were great.

But the true strength of the area is in our local productions, many of which equal or surpass professional productions. The Oakland Theater downtown is one of our favorite venues. It’s productions are edgy, oftentimes earthy, and maybe to everyone’s taste. But they are always outstanding in production values and presentation. Vocals are out of this world. Last week, we went to see their annually fundraising effort: How the Drag Queen Stole Christmas. This is a locally written re-telling of A Christmas Carol about a Scrooge of a drag queen. It is modified each year to take into account current events. Over the past four years, it has rapidly become a local tradition for those who are brave and open enough to view some appropriately irreverent material. The number of performances has grown from one to six, with an additional midnight show which pushes the envelope off of the table. Not for everyone’s taste, certainly not family friendly, but we are so lucky to have it.

Move Over Broadway’s annual production of Believe, this year based on White Christmas, once again packed the folks in for three performances at the newly built St. Michael’s Parish Hall. The choral vocals of the ensemble cast are Broadway quality, seriously. The solos are terrific, some better than others, but all are either top shelf or near top shelf. These guys are great. Producer and Director Marlene Strollo out does herself every year. If you haven’t seen this Christmas production, mark your calendar for next year.

In the category of one I should have seen but missed was the Stambaugh Auditorium Cocoa and Carols offering, featuring the Stambaugh Chorus, several high school choruses, and the Dana School of Music from YSU. I had practice myself that night so I had to bug out, but from those who both participated and attended, I understand it was a real barn burner of show, and packed to the rafters.

Things coming up as I write this include the Seraphim Concert (my organization of dedicated choral music aficionados) at Poland Methodist Church on Rt. 224 on Sunday, December 13 @ 3:00. The Youngstown Playhouse production of Miracle on 34th Street, also directed by Marlene Strollo, the beginning the weekend December 11 at the Playhouse. The Youngstown Symphony Christmas Spectacular on Saturday, December 12, at the DeYor Center. And the always popular Christmas on Easy Street, also at the DeYor Center, the weekend of December 18. If you haven’t seen an Easy Street production, you are missing a lot. Easy Street Productions is our local professional troupe, and it never disappoints.

I can’t even begin to list all of the church productions, many of which are spectacular in every sense of the word, especially if you get into the Victory Assembly stuff. Then there are the locals theater productions in Salem and New Castle, which can be just, plain fun.

Please patronize some of these outstanding local productions. From secular to sacred, the Holiday Season in Youngstown is something to celebrate.

4 and 5 Meatball Review

2009-12-04T14:12:00.000-08:00

Hustle and bustle and no time to eat!!!! For some reason, this holiday season is “nuts.” We are so busy, we are actually eating at home…GOTCHA!!! Here’s the truth!!! The place I was going to review for this week was so awful I couldn’t do it to the owners. It was really, really bad. It was one of the worst meals out I have had in a long time. What’s the name? I don’t want to get sued. So instead, I thought it would be fun to review my four and five meatball choices over the past 2 years, with some updated comments where appropriate.

THE BEST OF THE BEST – FIVE MEATBALL CHOICES

THE IRON BRIDGE – Mercer, PA: My favorite all round restaurant. Better than its Springfield Grill cousins, the food is consistently good at reasonable prices in a great atmosphere. The drive there is part of the fun through beautiful country side. We go there often, and except for one dinner which was the exception that proved the rule, this is still my number one choice.

DISH OSTERIA – Pittsburgh, PA: Great Carson Street choice located in Pittsburgh’s Southside. It is modern chic to the max with a young and casually sophisticated crowd. Consistently listed as one of Pittsburgh’s best restaurants, everything about this place, including its innovative Italian oriented menu is top shelf without being stuffy.

HYDE PARK PRIME STEAKHOUSE – Cleveland (Beachwood) as well as other locations in OH and PA: Cleveland based steakhouse chain that has made a big splash in the Midwest, and my steakhouse of choice. I prefer it to Ruth’s Chris and Morton’s of Chicago. Each Hyde Park has a unique design. The Beachwood entry is probably the closest and the least attractive of the bunch. The one in the Short North District of Columbus is an architectural knock out. Its steaks are always on the mark, with the best au gratin potatoes I have ever had in my life. Enough said!!

AQUEOUS – Nemacolin Resort in Farmington, PA: Bring lots of money to this Frank Lloyd Wright inspired stunner. The total experience is worth the iron you will shell out for great food in an outstanding atmosphere surrounded by the Laurel Highlands. Every detail is addressed right down to the silverware, dishes and table linens, which are steamed during table turnovers. The food is steak oriented, simple, and delicious. Maybe in a few years I will be able to afford to go there again. Until then, the memory lingers. (Closed seasonally)

SOME FOUR MEATBALL FAVORITES…or where we like to go!!!

Although the Youngstown area may lack white table cloth restaurants of the 5 star variety, we are truly blessed with a plethora of great places to eat which give big city quality for mid city prices in atmospheres us Youngstowners find comfortable.

SELAH – Struthers is a gritty town known for its fiercely proud “shot and a beer crowd”, and we love it. Selah brings some gentrification into the mix. The food is good in a sophisticated setting. You would think you were in New York. Service is spotty. But we love Struthers…and we love Selah.

ROYAL OAKS – People think I am nuts for touting an old school dirt bar. But it continues to have the best ribs around, which sometimes they run out of ! (Call my high school English teacher after that sentence!). Gird your loins and go forth…and if the place is a bit much for you, get takeout.

CAFÉ CAPRI – A long time Youngstown standard, if you love Rat Pack “guido” chic, this is the place to go. It is a beautiful facility and the food is good and reasonably priced. Service can be an issue occasionally, but have another drink and look for Dean Martin. Hey, do you think we qualify to be in The Jersey Shore?

CORKY AND LENNY’S (Beachwood) – Alright, so they had some cleanliness issues a few years back, but they fixed it up and it is still the best corned beef sandwich you will get anywhere. Surly service is the trademark of this typical deli. If you love Jewish food, this is the place. Pretend you are at the old Wolfie’s in Miami. We love it, and make it a point to stop there when we want to eat and chill when visiting Cleveland.

BRAVO CUCINA (Woodmere/Cranberry are the closest) – This is the only chain Italian restaurant I will visit, and I visit it as often as I can. The house salad is the best I have ever had anywhere, and I always order a double portion. The rest of the food is well prepared and reasonably priced served in faux Tuscan surroundings that are inviting and comfortable. This is the sister chain of Brio…Bravo is better.

CAFÉ 422 – An old favorite with a redo. The 422 is one of the last old Warren strip restaurants still in operation. The new owners have done a great job of revamping the menu while keeping old favorites. Prices are still more than fair…but the food has gone from consistently mediocre to consistently good. This is an old comfortable slipper that one likes to continually slip into.

There are several 4 meatball restaurants that are equally as good as the ones mentioned above, but these are the ones we go to on a regular basis, and hope will be there for a long time. Good eating!!!

Thanksgiving Dinner

2009-11-25T11:51:00.000-08:00

Thanksgiving is one of my favorite holidays…and also the kick-off to the Christmas season. So it’s hard to go to a restaurant for a nice dinner to review in the midst of stuffing our faces at home and fighting the Black Friday crowds at Best Buy. Top that off with doing some decorating at home and football, it is a wings and pizza slugfest Friday through Sunday.

So I will concentrate on my "main event" Thanksgiving dinner. I actually prefer to go out for Thanksgiving; not because the food is better, but my wife works and has a ton of other things to do Thanksgiving weekend. It just doesn’t seem fair that she has to spend an entire day cooking then cleaning up.

We have had some memorable Thanksgiving dinners out. My favorite was the year we went to the long defunct Lock 24 in Elkton. It was snowing outside, and the ride there was just as good as the dinner. Driving along the winding roads in the snowy countryside really got you in the mood. My in-laws were with us, and they are as traditional as you get. I’m not so sure they appreciated it as much as I did, but it was fun nonetheless.

I have also had some real clunkers. My club does an outstanding job for Thanksgiving dinner. But one time about ten years ago or so it was just the pits. It was one of the days when everything goes wrong. The management put us in a room all by ourselves, like we had the swine flu or something. We asked to be moved to where there was somebody breathing, and they weren’t too happy. The turkey was so dry you could have used it for a sponge. No gravy!! Needless to say the apologies came in profusely the following Monday. Everybody has a bad day now and then.

But my favorite memories are still eating at home. When I was small, my grandmother would do the turkey thing, but always added an Italian twist to the meal. It started with Wedding Soup and there was a pasta course. Dessert was always served with Spumoni. My mother would prepare some fried asparagus, and Eggplant Parmesan, almost up until the time she died. Don’t get too sentimental. Those two items usually ended up in a fight with my father. He didn’t like to fry. Those memories aren't so happy.

But things got simplified over the years. As my family died off, my wife took on more and more of the responsibility. My mother still wanted to do the eggplant and the asparagus, which meant my wife had to go to her house to “help” her. The wedding soup was replaced with broiled grapefruit, which we always had for Christmas dinner.

The last several years my wife cooked some humdinger Thanksgiving dinners. One year, we replicated a Julia Child recipe and had the butcher bone the turkey, then we reconstructed it. It was outstanding and easy to serve. Two years ago my wife made the best gravy I have ever had in my life, seriously. Unfortunately, it was one of those things she “threw together” and we didn’t write down what she did that made it so good. We did remember one thing, a tablespoon of rich balsamic vinegar. Whoa Mama!!

Although I can take or leave the turkey, I love everything that goes with it. I like plain mashed potatoes…forget the garlic or chive variety. Put in lots of butter and salt, then smother the smashed spuds with gravy. I am a stuffing freak. I can, and do, eat a whole bowl myself. Keep all that oyster and cornbread or chestnut stuffing. I like plain old bread stuffing with butter and some minced onions and celery and salt and pepper. Throw a little broth on it to moisten it then stuff right into the bird. My wife usually makes a separate casserole of stuffing just for me.

One last thought, my favorite Thanksgiving special is A Charlie Brown Thanksgiving. If you haven’t seen it, rent it or download it. It is sweet, touching and sets the mood just right. Recession notwithstanding, we have lots for which to be thankful, even if the meal is just toast, popcorn and candy corn. Just ask Charlie Brown.

Finally...for those of you who remember WKRP in Cincinnati: "As God is my witness, I thought Turkey's could fly!!" Memba that?

Hope you had a great Thanksgiving.

Tin Angel - Pittsburgh, PA.

2009-11-01T15:56:00.000-08:00

They say you can’t go home again. Well…maybe. When we first moved back to Youngstown in 1975, a big night out was a trip to Mount Washington in Pittsburgh. Mt. Washington is the mountain that runs alongside the Allegheny River giving stunning views of the downtown Pittsburgh and the Golden Triangle. Perched on top are several landmark Pittsburgh restaurants where you can dine with a breathtaking view of the city.

There are two funiculars that go up the mountain. One ends at Station Square, the other down the road a piece, into a gravel parking lot. The dining establishments were at the top end of the latter, where we would park the car and take the incline to the eateries. The very fancy and pricey “view” restaurant list included Christopher’s (no longer there. It was too expensive to pay off the maitre’d for a window table. It’s now a fish place.), Le Mont (still operating), and the Tin Angel.

We liked the Tin Angel. Being young and in love, my wife and I were easily impressed by its picture window vistas, twinkle lights and little flickering candles on the table. Romance was in the air as you dined on a prix fix menu that included everything from soup to nuts, literally. You could choose from Veal Romano, Black Forest Filet (filet of beef stuffed with black cherries), Filet of Sole Almandine, and lobster tails solo or in a surf and turf combination. Throw a dollop of béarnaise sauce onto the various cuts of beef, and you were in 70’s heaven. You ended the dinner with a Tin Angel parfait. The mood was enhanced by Tom Jones and Engelbert Humperdink music piped in over a then state of the art music system.

I think the last time we were there was in 1979. This past Friday afternoon I had a business meeting in Pittsburgh. Rather than drive home in the Friday afternoon traffic, we decided to stay in the city Friday night and recapture our youth by paying a visit to the Tin Angel. Even the Pittsburgh business dude who I was visiting look stunned when I answered his query as to where we were eating. He said this place was a blast from the past. Notwithstanding, wouldn’t it be fun to see the place after all this time?

Our waitress last Friday night pretty much summed it up. When we told her we hadn’t been there for over 30 years, she said “Well, nothing has changed.” I almost doubled over laughing because she was exactly right. Nothing had changed. And I swear to God she was the same waitress who took care of us thirty years ago. It was the déjà vu all over again!!!

I couldn’t make up my mind whether this was depressing or kitschy. Tom Jones was still being piped in over the system, plus a disco version of Canadian Sunset…seriously!!! The patrons were our age or older, and to be honest, there weren’t that many of them. The menu hadn’t changed at all except for the prices. They did add Bill Clinton’s name to the Black Forest Filet. He and British Prime Minister John Major had a summit meeting there years ago and that is what they ordered. There is a plaque commemorating the event outside the front door.

Here’s the thing. It is still a pretty restaurant, although really dated. And the food, also dated, was just outstanding. We had a great dinner. I put on my Democratic façade and ordered the Bill Clinton Black Forest Filet. Dinner started with wedding soup. Then came a huge antipasto tray, enough for dinner all by itself. The main course was served with a baked stuffed tomato and rice pilaf. The steak was outstanding, perfectly cooked although maybe a tad too much béarnaise sauce. Dinner was topped off with the Tin Angel parfait, consisting of French vanilla ice cream topped with crème de cassis (Chambord) and whipped cream. It was really, really good.

Yes, the place was a tad run down. Yes, the food was heavy. But so what? This was a great dinner, and one I will remember for a long time. We intend to go back.

If I were the owners, I would be marketing the place as a 70’s redo. It would be right in sync with some of the women’s fashion trends of today. Those sweater dresses and tops are back in style. Wait a minute…is that Mary Tyler Moore over there?

Price wise…bring money, but it is worth it. Sometimes at “view” restaurants, you pay for the view and the food sucks. That isn’t the case here. Expensive, but you get what you pay for plus the view.

My rating, a very solid 4 meatballs.

The Tin Angel

1200 Grandview Ave

Pittsburgh, PA 15211-1295

(412) 381-1919

Aqueous: Five Meatball Dining in Farmington, Pa.

2009-10-29T15:21:00.000-07:00

If you read my blog, you know that this past weekend my wife and I visited Nemacolin Woodlands Resort in Farmington, PA. What a wonderful place it is. There are three hotel buildings: The Chateau, Falling Rock, and the Lodge (the least expensive of the three). If you haven’t been there, go!!!! It is the ultimate getaway place for peaceful relaxation, and a ton of outdoor things to do.

The restaurants at the resort are expensive. But that doesn’t mean they aren’t good. In fact, they are outstanding. Lautrec (Triple-A Five Diamond rated), in the Chateau, is the lead restaurant, but ultra expensive and a tad out of my league. It is for serious foodies. So we visited Aqueous located in the Falling Rock hotel facility. No slouch either, Aqueous carries a Triple-A Four Diamond rating, and surpasses all expectations.

The entire experience is a feast for the eyes as a well as your palate. Falling Rock is based on the architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright. It is gorgeous. It takes your breath away when you walk into the lobby. Pictures don't do this place justice. The Amber Bar, located in the lobby, is a great place to sip on your pre-dinner drinks. You can have dinner at adjoining tables also located in the lobby without reservations. You definitely need reservations to eat in the restaurant, and they are difficult to come by on a Saturday night.

Aqueous carries the Frank Lloyd Wright theme to the limit, right down to the table and chairs, the artwork, the table coverings, plate design, and flatware. It is visually stunning, with soaring ceilings and banks of floor to ceiling windows looking out over superlative landscapes.

The staff here is professional, friendly, and well trained. From the bartenders in the Amber Bar, to the Maître D, to the sommelier, and to the wait staff, you are pampered and well tended. These folks could be easily stuffy, but the friendliness transcends everything.

The menu offerings also reflect the straight forwardness of Frank Lloyd Wright architecture. At the end of the day, Aqueous is a steak oriented restaurant. The menu is simple and streamlined mirroring the surroundings. It emphasizes basic, well prepared food ranging from salmon to pork chops to signature steak offerings, prepared as ordered!!!

We started with a fig and blue cheese tart with a port reduction sauce. Wow!! Tangy and sweet at the same time, it was the perfect way to begin a meal. My next course was classic lobster bisque…the least favorite item of the meal (good, but not great), and a shared simple salad with vinaigrette dressing. For a main course, my wife ordered roasted Amish chicken with squash risotto. I ordered a small filet with a brandy-green peppercorn sauce served on the side. As a side dish, we shared a plate of potato croquettes, which were luscious and delicious. While the food sounds fancy, it is simple, perfectly presented and prepared.

The Nemacolin wine list is the second largest in Pennsylvania. These are serious wine connoisseurs. That being said, Tony, Aqueous’ award winning sommelier, knows his stuff and is not afraid to offer wine that is reasonable in price and compliments your meal. We took a class from him earlier in the day. He appreciates a good table wine as well as the high end uppity offerings. Tell him what you want and your price range, and he will fix you up.

Aqueous is an event, and pricey to the point where a visit here should be rarely used guilty pleasure. But when you do decide to indulge yourself, you will enjoy every single, delicious, beautiful and expensive mouth full of food.

Although I don't have the cache of a Triple-A Four Diamond rating, I give it a full scale five meatballs.

Aqueous
Nemacolin Woodlands Resort
1001 Lafayette Drive
Farmington, PA 154371
800.422.2736
724.329.8555

Primadonna's - McKees Rocks

2009-10-08T11:59:00.001-07:00

There are two types of people in the world. Those who know where McKees Rocks is, and those that don’t. If you are in the latter category, McKees Rocks is an adjacent municipality to Pittsburgh. It is located on Pa. State Route 51 reachable by taking I-79 south from the Pennsylvania Turnpike to the Neville Island exit. Drive over Neville Island through all of the chemical plants located on Neville Road to Rt. 51 where you will turn left (don’t go up the big hill or you will be in real trouble); take Rt. 51 to Tunnel Way (landmark is Silky’s Gentlemen’s Club); through the tunnel to Broadway and turn right! Got it?

I have often taken “the industrial route” into Pittsburgh, especially if I am going to Station Square, and have driven through McKees Rocks many times. What I didn’t know is that McKees Rocks is located on two sides of a mountain, with the bulk of the city on the other side of the mountain from where you are driving. The area along Route 51 is a little dicey; but drive through the tunnel and you exit into a different place and time. This is a long standing, old fashioned Italian enclave. The main street is lined with all sorts of businesses most with Italian names. We found this interesting anachronism while looking for Joyce’s Cookies a number of years back (don’t ask!). At any rate, Primadonna’s came highly recommended as a good place to eat. So we did.

The cuisine, of course, is Italian. It is located in an old building located on a corner cross street to the main drag. It isn’t much to look at on the outside, and for that matter, not much to look at on the inside either. Yet it has received numerous awards as one of the top restaurants in the Pittsburgh area. And it is currently owned by a gentleman who has ties to the Youngstown area...why am I not surprised?

The place absolutely reflects the town in which it is located. Seated at one of the white table clothed tables with Italian frescos on the wall, you can easily imagine yourself in a movie where you might be tempted to say “Leave the gun. Take the cannoli!” The whole scene is like a movie set reminiscent of the Italian restaurant in the movie Moonstruck. There is a small bar to the right after you enter the building. There are two dining rooms sparsely decorated, but strangely make you feel at home. “Hey!! You wanna good food you stay! S’no…keep-a goin’.”

The service is efficient and professional. I have read other reviews of the place where the reviewers complained that the service is slow. But the kitchen prepares meals individually, and the menu warns that it may take awhile. This is not a place to duck in and out for a quick meal. There is no effort to turn the tables over 3 times in a night. This is a place to relax, and savor good company and a leisurely meal. Have some lambrusco and chill out.

The food here, while not great, is more than good. I have never had a bad meal. The menu is extensive with a heavy emphasis on veal dishes. The veal piccata is outstanding. Ditto for the Veal Parm. My wife and friends have had a variety of well prepared fish dishes. The food here is not fancy. It is straight forward Italian fare several cuts above the standard tavern type Italian food you can get here in Youngstown at places like the MVR.

My only complaint is it is a tad pricey. Veal dishes are about $25.00, well within the norm for this type of place; but a plate of pasta in the $20.00 range gets a raised eyebrow!! On the other hand, the total experience is well worth the price.

Primadonna is worth the trip whether you are looking for Joyce’s Cookies or not. Just look for the turn off on Route 51 at Silky’s.

My score: 3 ½ very good, but very expensive, meatballs!

1/2

Primadonna's Restaurant
801 Broadway Avenue
McKees Rocks, PA
412-331-1001

Mocha House and Panera's

2009-09-25T08:18:00.000-07:00

When the economy is booming, five dollar lattes are de rigueur. But when the economy is in the tank, we all try to stretch a buck, and the first thing to go is pricey coffee beverages. After all, you can go to McDonald’s and get a full lunch for the price of a Mocha Grande at Starbucks.

Speaking of which, I have never been a Starbuck’s fan. I find the Starbucks coffee bitter and uber strong. My simple tastes go to Maxwell House.

Notwithstanding, I do like to go to certain coffee shops for lunch and an occasional snack. In this area, there are two that I frequent: the locally owned Mocha House and the nationally franchised chain Panera’s. We locals still claim Panera’s as our own as the Warren based Covelli Enterprises sold its McDonald’s franchises and went into the Panera’s business as the parent company expanded from the original Au Bon Pain coffee shops. Covelli runs a tight ship with all of its operations winning awards for excellence. If you have gone to non-Covelli owned Panera’s, you know what I mean.

Let’s start with the Mocha House. It has been around the area for a long time. It has two locations. The original is located on High Street in Warren, and the expansion is located on Tiffany Boulevard in Boardman. The Warren store is neat! It is large with a warm interior and a fun place to visit. It is what a coffee shop should be. The Boardman store is smaller and somewhat more sterile looking in line with the plaza in which it is located. But it still has a local flavor with locally owned neighbors like the Classic Bakery and Catullo’s Butcher Shop.

Both of the locations offer a wide variety of breakfast, lunch and dinner items, and daily soup specials. The food is fairly imaginative, well prepared, with a wide variety of choices given its limited kitchen facilities. I have had some wonderful grilled sandwiches and some very tasty soup at both of its locations. The customer orders at a walk up counter, with the menu displayed on huge hand written boards on the back wall. Desserts are featured in a major way, with a dessert case sinfully filled with decadent cakes and tortes right by the walk-up order counter. I don’t believe the desserts are made on site. But they look really good nonetheless. Don’t count calories here.

If I have one complaint, the help at both of the locations isn’t particularly friendly. I feel like apologizing for bothering them. Coffee is also kept behind the counter, so one has to ask for a refill. The attitude is a bit much, and the owners should try to correct it. That being said, I like going there for lunch or for a sweet.

Panera’s is a class operation all the way, with a heavy emphasis on homemade breads and baked goods. It also offers imaginative lunches and soups, but does not have the main course entrees offered by Mocha House. But it’s kind of “who cares” because the food at Panera’s is always good. There are numerous Panera locations all over the valley. The Canfield and Austintown locations are new and are preferable to the Boardman location, which is cramped with difficult access. Mr. Covelli…build a new Boardman store!!!! How about right across from your O’Charley’s location at Windham and South Avenue…right next to my office!!!!!

If the food is good at Panera’s, the baked goods are outstanding. Yes, they are a little pricey, but when I die and go to heaven, the Lord better be providing those luscious cinnamon rolls and pecan rolls. The Danish are great, and the Bears Claws are the best, and I mean the best, I have ever had. They are addicting. The little quiches they offer for breakfast aren’t too shabby either.

If there is one complaint with Panera’s, it’s the mass confusion at the order counter. It would be helpful if it would develop a system of lines for folks to queue up in rather than people cutting in front of people with the walk up system they have now. It is a tad irritating on busy days. And like Mocha House, some of the help could use some personality training, but that is the exception instead of the rule.

I won’t award meatballs for either of these places because they are basically coffee shop operations. But both get an enthusiastic thumbs up!!!

The Upstairs - Youngstown

2009-09-10T06:25:00.000-07:00

The Upstairs has become a local institution. Whether we admit it or not, it is the current “see and be seen” place in the Mahoning Valley. Go there on any night and you will alternately see local politicos, both current and has been, country club types who are out on the town, singles of both sexes…and some really hot babes. You will even see some nefarious folks of questionable repute. This place is a hoot, and a lot of fun.

Located on the second floor of a nondescript building on Mahoning Avenue, you have to climb the steps to get there…hence the name “The Upstairs.” On the first floor, the same owners have a wine store and wine bar which is extremely attractive. You can pretend you are being “scoped out” by the guy sitting watching the comings and goings. Do they call “upstairs” when someone enters the stairwell who may cause a problem? Just kidding!!! But it is fun to pretend.

You enter into a bar area which, in my humble opinion, is what a bar should be. It is nothing fancy, but sophisticated and self contained, filling up the entire space. It is just crowded enough, and reminds me of restaurant bars from the 1960’s.

The dining area is a little crowded, and not particularly large, but it comfortable and extremely attractive. Both the bar and the restaurant can be described as “soft” looking with impressionist art work on the walls and a soft glow. There is a second floor outside patio area which is very nice, and popular in the summer. The view from the patio isn’t anything spectacular, but you are still under the stars in the back of the building away from the street noise.

We were promptly seated, but at a round table made for six, which made my group of 4 have to lean in to talk. The service is good, but it took awhile to get our drink orders, with the drinks coming out one at a time. Notwithstanding, the waitress was very friendly and attentive which made everything okay!!!

The menu and the food are very good, but not great. I ordered the flat iron steak medium rare and came out well done. But it was tender and tasty and not worth complaining about. My wife said her fish was terrific. The menu has Mediterranean overtones with some Lebanese, Italian, and Greek offerings, along with standard American type fare. I have had veal here on another occasion which was out of this world. Prices are on the high side of medium, maybe a smidge higher than comparable places in the area. But you know what? Who cares!!!

The Upstairs should be judged on the total package. It might not reach the top of any my "look for" lists, but there is no shame in being just very good. It has a good ambiance, good food, good drinks, good service, and is a great place to come and have a good time. More often than not, that fits the bill just fine.

We will be back. It takes reservations, a major plus. My rating: a total 4 meatballs.

The Upstairs Restaurant
4500 Mahoning Avenue
Youngstown, OH 44515
330-793-5577